Beauty

We're all guilty of sleeping with wet hair. Here's how bad it actually is

By Josefin Forsberg
Model poses with wet hair

Photo: Janelle Miller

Split ends, dandruff, and the possibility of catching a cold: there's no shortage of scaremongering about going to bed with wet hair. But is it really bad to sleep with wet hair? We've sorted the warnings that hold water from the ones that don't, and rounded up the damage control for when a late-night shower is unavoidable

All products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Is it bad to sleep with wet hair?

We've all done it. The workout ran late, dinner ran later, and by the time you're out of the evening shower, your hair has about as much chance of air-drying before bed as your pillowcase has of staying dry. And if you're not willing to blow-dry, then into bed it goes, sopping wet. But is it actually bad to sleep with wet hair? Once in a while, not really. Make a habit of it, though, and your hair will start to object.

Does sleeping with wet hair damage it?

Hair is at its weakest when it's wet: water swells each strand and lifts the cuticle (its protective outer layer), which leaves it stretchier and far easier to snap, mainly through friction. "Wet hair is typically weaker, more fragile, and susceptible to damage from brushing," says Patrik Lernberger, celebrity hairstylist and co-founder of Lernberger Stafsing. Add seven or eight hours of tossing and turning on a cotton pillowcase, and you have a recipe for breakage, frizz, and split ends. Lest we forget the now warm, damp pillow which will give your scalp its own grievances.

The good news? None of this happens overnight (pun intended). The risk builds with frequency, so the more useful question is how often you're doing it.

Can sleeping with wet hair make you sick?

No. Colds are caused by viruses, so wet hair alone won't give you one, however chilly you feel going to bed. The same goes for the old superstition that sleeping with wet hair damages your eyesight: there's no evidence for it.

Can it cause dandruff or an itchy scalp?

It can. The "hair mould" videos on TikTok exaggerate, but a damp scalp on a warm pillow is a real risk for dandruff.

"The moist environment between the pillow and your wet hair provides an ideal environment for fungi, bacteria, and a yeast called Malassezia to thrive, so you can also increase the risk of dandruff," says Lernberger. The moisture also seeps into your pillow, and one that stays damp night after night can harbour bacteria, dust mites, and mould.

If you're prone to dandruff or an itchy scalp, dry your roots before bed.

Is it OK to sleep with damp hair?

Yes, and it's far better than going to bed with wet hair. Damp hair holds less water, so it stretches less and leaves less moisture on your pillow. Focus on the roots, which sit closest to your scalp and stay in contact with the pillowcase all night.

"Consider spending a bit of time using a microfibre towel or T-shirt to blot excess moisture from your hair before lying down," says Lernberger. "To minimise breakage, let your hair air dry before going to bed or use a hairdryer on a low setting if you are in a rush."

Aim for around 70 per cent dry. If you're unsure which method is kinder, here's how air-drying compares with blow-drying.

Can you put wet hair in a bonnet?

Damp hair, yes. Soaking wet hair, no: a bonnet traps moisture against your scalp.

A satin or silk-lined bonnet is one of the best ways to protect hair overnight, as it cuts friction and keeps curls and protective styles in shape. Blot your hair and dry the roots before putting it on, and choose one with a band that holds without pressing.

Should you braid wet hair or put it in a bun?

A loose braid is fine. A tight bun isn't.

"Tying your hair in a tight bun can apply pressure to the scalp and create tension on the hair shaft when lying down," says Lernberger. The worst culprit, he says, "is an elastic hair band, which can lead to breakage over time, especially if your hair is already weak or prone to breakage. It may also cause tangles and knots, which puts additional stress on your strands."

A loose braid on damp hair is gentler, and leaves you with soft waves by morning. Secure it with a silk scrunchie rather than an elastic, and wait until your hair is damp rather than soaking: a tight braid on wet hair puts it under the same tension as a bun.

How to sleep with wet curly hair

Curls need different handling, something I've learnt since embracing my natural waves. For many people, drying overnight is part of the routine, so the aim is to let curls set without crushing them.

Apply your leave-in or curl cream while your hair is soaking wet, so curls form in their natural pattern. Then plop: wrap your hair in a cotton T-shirt or microfibre towel for 20 to 30 minutes to remove excess water. At bedtime, gather your curls loosely on top of your head with a silk scrunchie (the "pineapple") so you sleep on less of them, and use a satin bonnet or silk pillowcase. In the morning, refresh with a mist of water and scrunch rather than brush

The safe way to sleep with wet hair:

When there's no way around it, these steps keep the damage to a minimum.

1. Detangle gently. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers, starting at the ends and working up.

2. Apply a leave-in or oil. "First of all, moisturise your hair immediately after washing by applying a leave-in conditioner or a small amount of hair oil to the mid-lengths and ends," says Lernberger. The Lernberger Stafsing BB Cream Leave-In Treatment is an all-in-one balm that prevents tangling, while Björn Axén Hair Oil Smooth & Shine coats thick, curly, and Afro hair in argan oil, sunflower oil, and vitamin E.

3. Blot, don't rub. Press the water out with a microfibre towel or T-shirt. Rubbing roughens the cuticle.

4. Dry your roots. Even five minutes with a hairdryer on a low setting helps.

5. Wear it loose or in a loose braid. Avoid elastics and tight buns. Curls can go up in a loose pineapple.

6. Sleep on silk or satin. "Silk is a softer fabric than cotton, so it will reduce friction and help prevent tangles and breakage," says Lernberger. It's also less absorbent, so it won't draw out your hair's natural oils.

7. Keep your pillowcase fresh. If you often go to bed with wet hair, change or air your pillowcase more often.