Stockholm Fashion Week finds its stride again – as a platform for emerging Swedish talent

This week, a handful of international press and buyers descended on Stockholm for the revival of Stockholm Fashion Week. Both visitors to the city (who universally commented on our spectacular weather) and local fashion industry players were unsure of what to expect. For one, the week was held between seasons – a bit too early to show spring/summer '26 collections (though a couple brands did) and the major Swedish fashion players were notably absent from the schedule. But, with the support of the Swedish Government via the Ministry for Foreign Affairs (for the very first time, no less), Stockholm Fashion Week managed to carve out its own space on the international fashion calendar, proving to be a showcase of emerging Swedish talents, presenting their burgeoning brands in untraditional ways.

“There are a lot of people here in Stockholm who view Stockholm Fashion Week one way and we’re here to show them that it doesn’t have to be done that way,” says John-Jamal Gille, Director of the Association of Swedish Fashion Brands, the body that puts on Stockholm Fashion Week. He stresses the fashion week as a platform for emerging brands – an opportunity to show fresh talent on a global scale – thanks to the international guest programme (this season, the ASFB hosted a delegation of 30 press and buyers from all corners of the globe). From his perspective, the most positive surprise was the buyer response. “There were many buyers – and in particular ones from established department stores – that responded very well to seeing new brands and getting a new perspective on the Swedish fashion industry,” he says, noting that he believes we will see one or two of the brands that showed this season stocked in Japan, Korea, Italy and France – the regions that seemed most interested in what STHLMFW was offering.

Many designers opted for presentations rather than shows, focusing on vibes in lieu of presenting a full collection. The prevailing intention was to introduce one’s brand – both the aesthetic and the ethos – to international visitors. Take, for instance, ADNYM, who showed off their left-of-centre, relaxed approach to tailoring in beloved local bar Riche Fenix. “Sure, a lot of people know the name ADNYM, but we know it’s just that to a lot of people – a name,” says co-founder Frippe Persson. “So we built the presentation around the DNA of the brand.” Models, dressed in a mix of core ‘always-available’ pieces and the autumn/winter 2025 collection, sipped red wine whilst fans of the brand – including actors Edvin Ryding and Alexander Abdallah – mixed and mingled. It was cool and effortless yet considered – everything we know ADNYM to be.

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Meanwhile, in a swankier part of town, LEONÍ held its presentation against the backdrop of auction house Bukowski’s latest exhibition. Here, Ostermalm’s well-dressed women (the brand is backed by Nathalie Schuterman) sipped champagne as they took in a handful of the brand’s latest pieces – currently available for purchase. “At LEONÍ, our focus is on the intimate dialogue between garment and wearer,” says designer Filippa Fuxe. "The act of buttoning, zipping, tying, wrapping – small, repeated movements. We’ve worked with that sense of rhythm and ritual. We wanted to illustrate this through a live dressing performance, where models dressed each other.”

For Fuxe and Schuterman, who opened the presentation with a speech about LEONÍ’s aforementioned ethos, participating in Stockholm Fashion Week just made sense, especially given that the brand is still finding its footing (it was launched in February of last year). “LEONÍ is still new, but we believe in building something long-term, and it felt natural to start at home,” says Fuxe. “There’s a growing community here that values both craft and concept, and we’re excited to contribute to that energy.”

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Other players, meanwhile, went the more traditional route, staging a runway show. But that isn’t to say that these shows, which took place on all corners of the city, were dull and dusty. Quite the contrary; there was a DIY energy to the runways that was rather infectious (especially after a beer or two; 1664 Blanc was a sponsor and bottles were available at most shows).

At STHLM MISC, which showed on a basketball court, models came down the runway on pointe shoes or dribbling basketballs, clad in deconstructed athletic-inspired looks with a sexy twist. “The collection was inspired by the sports nerd. But also the nerd that maybe wasn't so good at sports,” notes designer Julia Åsberg. While the brand has staged a couple smaller activations to showcase previous collections, this was by far STHLM MISC’s most ambitious happening to date. “While we have truly loved to do this with our closest community, we have also dreamt of a bigger stage – an opportunity for more people to experience the MISCellaneous shenanigans we create,” says Åsberg. “This was made possible through the rebirth of Stockholm Fashion Week.”

Among those showing spring/summer '26 was menswear brand Past Tense, who showed their polished tailored looks in a warehouse space (an old Tobacco factory, Tobaksfabriken) in Södermalm. “The brand is Swedish, based in Stockholm, so of course STHLMFW felt right,” says founders Victor Lindh and Adrien Forray, noting that in the years since the brand launched, it’s garnered a great international following. “We also like to support new initiatives to give back for all the initial support we received as a young brand.”

For those longing for the Stockholm Fashion Week of yore (ambitious shows in grand spaces), this scratched that itch, featuring 38 looks and nearly as many models (and, for the first time, footwear). "Overall we are very happy with how things have been during STHLMFW,” say Lindh and Forray. “We’ve made lots of new connections, received countless praises and it’s been a tsunami of love on social media.” Joining Past Tense in staging more straightforward (and ambitious) full-collection shows were Studio Constance (a covetable showing of leather outerwear and chunky sweaters) and Deadwood, who closed out the week with a punky pre-spring collection in a well-lit parking lot (it should be noted this is the only brand that will also show at Copenhagen Fashion Week in August).

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In keeping with its ambition to support emerging talents, there were also student showcases (Beckmans took over a gorgeous space by Moderna Museet to house pieces from their graduating class) and awards granted to young designers. On the final day, the Swedish Threads award, an opportunity for emerging designers to connect with industry power players, took place at Soho House. “Ten years ago Stockholm Fashion Week used to be so big, and I thought it was sad that it completely died out,” says Lill Lindqvist, Head of Membership & Communication at Soho House (back in its previous iteration, Lindqvist often helped to throw the massive closing party). “Stockholm has a great community for fashion and I’m glad to see it’s back. It’s a good angle to start with new talents. John-Jamal did a good job!”

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Meanwhile, for Stockholm Fashion Week 2026 (moving forward, Stockholm Fashion Week will, take place once annually), Gille and his team intend to start preparing much earlier. “The government funding was the green light,” notes Gille, highlighting the major effort it took to get the Ministry for Foreign Affairs on board. “For 2026, we’ll be ready.” Meanwhile, Gille relays that the Ministry has reacted positively to inaugural Stockholm Fashion Week 2.0, pleased that the event also gave Stockholm an opportunity to show itself off a little bit. Gille encourages brands to “show more” next season, noting that the brands who presented more complete collections received the strongest buyer and press response.

To that end, perhaps we will move a bit closer towards Stockholm Fashion Week’s heyday – at least in terms of scale. Ideally, the week and its emerging talents will grow together, proving that with perseverance, talent, scrappiness (and some government support), we can create something special right here at home. Adnym’s Persson put it best: “We’re just happy it’s happening.”