Watch out for thorns: This season, florals pack a punk punch

By Clare McInerney

Printed silk gown, €1,475. Dries Van Noten. Satin skirt, worn underneath, €1,450. Leather gloves, €1,090. Both Ann Demeulemeester. Leather landon, worn as necklace. Our Legacy.

Floral dressing belongs to more than just midsummer. As the days shrink even shorter, florals take on a darker note, with black tones and gothic lace growing amongst our aesthetic arrangements. It gives way to a less delicate beauty grounded by sturdy leather gloves and boots, fishnets and piercings. One word of warning: watch out for thorns

Scandinavia’s flower beds of colourful perennials and annuals may be starting to wilt as we reach the end of summer – but in the world of fashion, florals never die. Instead, they shape-shift and evolve, translated in different colour palettes, and given new character through their accompanying details. This season, as spotlighted in Vogue Scandinavia’s Aug - Sept issue, the inherent elegance of florals play out to a punk rhythm.


“The idea is to change that floral ideal by styling it with a cool edge, bringing in punk influences and some darkness into the colour palette,” says senior fashion editor Maria Barsoum of the editorial. “It’s about showing that, even though flowers don’t necessarily bloom in the autumn and winter, they’re certainly not meant to be just work in summer,” Barsoum goes on. “The winter floral is darker and cooler and trendier than ever.”

And bold punk florals are served up with aplomb from the usual contenders, including an array of Scandinavian brands: Rave Review, Acne Studios and Selam Fessahaye inclusive. “I think the Balenciaga look sets the aesthetic,” Barsoum says, “and is a great reference for this season’s floral trend. The full look is a strong flower print on a black background, which is exactly the print that speaks for this season. Together with piercings and thigh-high sock boots, it becomes a very cool look.”

Meanwhile, the florals blossom beyond two-dimensional this season, offering up a whole other slew of ways to fashion flowers. “We’re seeing a lot of 3D florals from the likes of Prada, Valentino, Paco Rabanne this season,” Barsoum comments. Across the runways, she also notes the darker floral tendency is widespread with painterly prints rendered on black or dark contrast backgrounds across many autumn/winter ’23 collections.

To tap this trend? Barsoum assures it’s simple to achieve. “Wear your florals with black pieces, and mix up the materials with leather, latex and mesh,” she says. “Any floral dress can be paired with fishnet stockings, chunky boots and statement jewellery to transition the florals from cute to cool. It’s all about contrasts!”

Pleated crepe blouse, €3,900, Skirt, €4,500, Large silver hoop earrings, €895, Knitted over-the-knee boots. All Balenciaga. .

. Photo: Rasmus Weng Karlsen

Upcycled coat made from bedspreads, price upon request. Rave Review. Floral printed bodysuit, €245. Norma Kamali via Mytheresa. Leather choker, €10. Punkshop. Leather heels, €429. Stand Studio. Upcycled dress made from deadstock fabric, €1,100. Rave Review. Upcycled fishnet stockings, worn as top. Stylist’s own. Satin skirt, worn underneath, €1,450. Ann Demeulemeester. . Photo: Rasmus Weng Karlsen

Photo: Rasmus Weng Karlsen

Floral printed velvet dress, €645, Floral printed velvet leggings, showpiece no price applicable. Both MSGM. Latex gloves, €87. Atsuko Kudo. Upcycled fishnet stockings, worn as top. Stylist’s own. Large silver hoop earrings, €895. Balenciaga. Leather landon, worn as necklace, €68. Our Legacy. Denim heels, price upon request. Acne Studios. . Photo: Rasmus Weng Karlsen

Photo: Rasmus Weng Karlsen

Chiffon dress, €419. byTiMo. Underbust leather corset, €38. Cum Clubwear. Chiffon dress, €618. byTiMo. Leather bra with silver chains, €407. R&M Leathers. . Photo: Rasmus Weng Karlsen

Jacquard bodice dress, €2,544, Vegan leather corset-harness, €500, Leather gloves, €547. All Mithridate. Large silver ear cuff, €490. Balenciaga. Fishnet stockings. Stylist’s own. Leather platform shoes, €127. Demonia via Cum Clubwear. ‘Hirigana Indigo’ fabric as backdrop, €97,60 per meter. Designers Guild. .

Floral printed bodysuit, price upon request. Missoni. Latex flower choker, €314. Atsuko Kudo. Leather fringe bag, price upon request. Burberry. Large silver ear cuff, €490. Balenciaga. Leather arm cuff with studs and rhinestones, €174. R&M Leathers. Leather boots, €430. Swedish Hasbeens. Printed silk chiffon gown, €4,250, Wool briefs, €830, Rose printed wool tights, €570. All Burberry. Latex gloves, €87. Atsuko Kudo. Large silver hoop earrings, €895. Balenciaga. Leather choker with studs, €12. Cum Clubwear. Leather heels, €429. Stand Studio. .

See-through floral mesh top, €800, See-through floral mesh trousers, €750. Both Selam Fessahaye. Latex bra, worn underneath, €395. Atsuko Kudo. Fishnet stockings. Stylist’s own. See-through floral mesh robe, €900, See-through floral mesh shorts, €780. Both Selam Fessahaye. Latex bra, worn underneath, €395. Atsuko Kudo. Fishnet stockings. Stylist’s own. Large silver hoop earrings, €895, Knitted over-the-knee boots, €1,750. Both Balenciaga. .

Photographer: Rasmus Weng Karlsen @ Link Details
Stylist: Maria Barsoum @ Link Details
Hair Stylist: Karolina Liedberg@ Link Details
Make-up Artist: Josefina Zarmén @ Link Details
Models: Gunnhild Chioko Johansen, Martine Chioko Johansen @ Team Models
Photographer Assistant: Matt Marsh
Stylist Assistants: Emelie Preber, Kiara Morris
Set Design: Caroline Sandström @ Camera Link
Casting Director: Lotta Carlsten @ Link Details
Production: Linkdetails