For spring/summer '24, Pearl Octopuss.y presents a menu of twisted tailoring where its signature brooches become the main course
Stepping inside 'Hos Arne' – an apartment in Gøteborggata in the heart of Grünerløkka housing a modern art gallery and event space – guests were eagerly awaiting one of the most highly discussed shows on Oslo Runway's schedule: Pearl Octopuss.y.
Known for its unique and sought-after jewellery and brooches, the brand's glittering works of wonder (handmade in Pearl Octopuss.y's Oslo studio) have gained international popularity and recently landed founder Cathrine Brøter a collaboration with Jason Wu for his New York Fashion Week runway show.
The cause for the inquisitive buzz before the show is that, for Oslo Runway 2023, Pearl Octopuss.y expands in its usual baroque pearls and glistening twists to present a line-up of delicious, handmade ready-to-wear comprising of fringe-trimmed blazers, silk scarves and tuxedo belts, long leather coats and billowing dresses. "We still wanted to keep the brooch as the main course," Brøter said right after the show. "We really just wanted to show the universe and the identity of Pearl Octopuss.y. Its maximal, mythical and more vulnerable side," she continues. "To me, the most important thing to communicate is emotions. If there are no feelings, there is no nerve; if there's no nerve, there's no heart. No risk," Brøter emphasises. "So it was important to communicate authenticity and love. The love of making and creating."
This love of making and creating is tangible in every tailored trouser, broad-shouldered blazer and even in the ephemeral music – a haunting violin played by model, muse and musician Esther Roe. Fluid, both literally and figuratively, the genderless garments are boundless and meant to be worn by everyone regardless of age or gender. "I love how there are no rules, and we really tried to let this be our guideline for the show," says Brøter.
With Pearl Octopuss.y, every piece builds on past seasons. "It's all connected. It's not a trend or a style - it's a universe and a force that drives me," says Brøter. "Looking back at some of our first pieces, you can still see and feel the connection and our deep signature that drives the brand."
Pearl Octopuss.y's unique take on tailoring comes embellished. Modelled on men's suiting, the pieces are all reworked with new slits and solutions, details to "make them more modern and sassy." Bejewelled and fringed, the brand's signature organic swirls are picked up by adding jewels and fringe, lending the pieces a sultry sway when moving. The colour palette was kept "low key", with shades of black, white and champagne colouring the cohesive collection. The occasional Klein Blue and turquoise broke the neutral scheme, as proposed by bags crafted from leftover leather.
It was an indelible collection which will undoubtedly leave its mark at home and abroad.
Discover Pearl Octopuss.y's SS24 collection below: