Beauty

The 'mob wife' made it onto the Copenhagen runway, courtesy of Nicklas Skovgaard

By Josefin Forsberg

Get your hot rollers and brown shadows at the ready: this season we want to be perfectly coiffed and sultry-eyed like the Nicklas Skovgaard girl

If you've missed the usurping of the clean girl aesthetic for the 'mob wife' look, then where have you been? Over the past few weeks, the internet has been overrun with references to the devil-may-care style derived from seedy style icons of the '80s and '90s. Think The Soprano's Carmella and Adriana, or Michelle Pfeiffer as Elvira Hancock in Scarface; three women who have made it onto 'mob wife' moodboard on TikTok and Pinterest – alongside the likes of Dua Lipa swathed in faux fur and Elsa Hosk wrapped in a leather coat. Compounding the aesthetic is the arrival of Sofia Vergara's new mini-series Griselda – portraying the life of Griselda Blanco, the 'Godmother' of Miami's drug empire during the 1980s.

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And while this sudden fascination with women vaguely related to often glamourised underbelly of crime may not have been top of mind for Nicklas Skovgaard when he designed his autumn/winter '24 collection there was an undeniable affiliation with the aesthetic. Most likely due to his mother stepping onto the proverbial stage as the main muse for this collection, inspiring the dropped waist silhouette in slouchy jersey fabrics, coiffed curls and statement clip-on earrings with her stint as an aerobics instructor in '80s London. "It was actually coincidental, but I really loved how it turned out," notes head makeup artist Anne Staunsager. "A great collaboration between hair and makeup can really make a huge difference for a look."

Photo: Hedvig Moberg & Patricia Aliaga Devall

The hair was most definitely plucked the '80s. There were two prevalent looks on the runway, but equally emblematic of the era. The first: cascading ringlets à la flash dance. The second: coiffed curls and carefully teased roots frozen in place with hairspray. Both proven to be unshakable as models made their way down the runway spinning and twirling on circular white polar bear rugs.

Photo: Hedvig Moberg & Patricia Aliaga Devall

Photo: Hedvig Moberg & Patricia Aliaga Devall

Photo: Hedvig Moberg & Patricia Aliaga Devall

The makeup came courtesy of Swedish beauty brand Manasi 7, using its line up of multi-use paint pots. The look was simple in its appeal, all while adhering to the soft yet sultry '80s aesthetic. A face oil mixed with the brand's skin enhancer laid the foundation for the glowy base, while the flush of all-over brown over the lids was finished with thick layers of black mascara. Cheeks were softly draped with apricot blush and the lips defined by two shades of lipliner: one darker along the edges and a lighter nude used in the centre.

"We kept it modern by looking at each model and create the look that works best for their facial features, some got the full look, and some got only lips, only eyes etcetera," says Staunsager. "It is so important to me that each model feel that they look amazing, it shines through when they hit the runway"

Photo: Hedvig Moberg & Patricia Aliaga Devall

Whether you're into this brazen new beauty look taking over our social media feeds, or consider it just a fad, it may be high time to adopt at least one element of the freshly minted 'mob wife' aesthetic. At least if you find yourself sporting Nicklas Skovgaard anytime soon.