Nicklas Skovgaard - AW24

Self-declared as 'baroque'n'roll’ in his aesthetic, Nicklas Skovgaard has ramped up the melodrama once again for autumn/winter '24. This time, to a big-haired, bubble-skirted, '80s-inflected degree. Held within the medieval walls of Helligaandshuet, the showcase was all a bit ‘extra' in the best way possible, with models walking slowly, brazenly through the circular arrangements of guests. Bananas, iPhones, and overt expressiveness as their props.

Throughout Skovgaard's short but explosive time on the fashion radar, the 29-year-old has been vocal about the influence of his mother, Annie. “I think it really all started out by looking at her dressing and slowly I started sewing clothes for myself,” he told Vogue Scandinavia back in 2022. Today, Annie's influence is present again as a muse for Skovgaard's eighth ready-to-wear collection, more specifically, her years working in London in the '80s as an aerobic instructor. “When looking at pictures of her from this part of her life,I see these images as small ‘window-frames’ into her way of living, working and dressing in this time of her life,” Skovgaard says.

She is one of three muses, their commonality being a working girl identity. The trio is completed with Tess McGill as played by Melanie Griffith in 1984's Working Girl, and Lecia Jønsson, lead singer of legendary '80s pop duo Laban. Fittingly, Laban's 'Kun Et Sekund' makes the cut in the show's soundtrack, along with other hits from the era à la The Cure.

That inescapable baroque spirit of Skovgaard's played out in ruffles – on shoes, most memorably – while balloon shapes executed in inky black vinyl and lambskin complemented the permed and coiffed 'dos. Precise gathers and draping amplified the drama of dropped waists, and strong shouldered silhouettes were to be expected.

And it's razzle-dazzle to the end, with a feathery white bonneted ensemble - echoing that of the designer worn by Alexa Chung to Vogue World in September – closing the show. It feels that Skovgaard is on the precipice of many more major red carpet, full spotlight moments ahead.