Melted lipstick, smudged mascara, creased concealer… it's time to leave those beauty nightmares in the past. Here, we talk to the experts to unlock the definitive guide to heat-friendly makeup this summer
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There's nothing like a healthy, dewy summer glow when it comes to makeup. But we can all agree that when the thermometer reaches temperatures over 30 degrees, the line begins to blur between a good amount of glow and straightforward oily skin. Humidity is your foundation’s nemesis; sweat causes mascara to smudge into raccoon-like rings beneath the eyes. But it doesn’t have to be this way. A heat-proof makeup look involves cherry-picking smart formulas that are lightweight, long-lasting, and sweat-resistant.
As we endure sizzling heatwaves this summer, Vogue Scandinavia sits down with experts to unveil the best industry tips and secrets to sweat-proof your makeup once and for all.
Do the prep work
"It is essential to keep in mind that our beauty habits must change between seasons," starts Érica Monteiro, a Stockholm-based makeup artist. With the rise of humidity levels in the air, a shift to more lightweight – yet nourishing – products creates a healthy foundation for your makeup. "The first step is ensuring your face is well cleansed and moisturised. So, opt for facial soaps that are gentle on your skin, avoiding heavier ingredients and exfoliants to prevent deep dryness. During this time of the year, our skin tends to get oilier, and it is common for people to skip the moisturising step in their routines. But hydrated skin is key to ensuring makeup lasts," explains Monteiro.
What you apply beneath your makeup is crucial for the longevity of your base, so it’s worth investing the time to get it right. After cleansing and applying an antioxidant-rich serum, look for gel or mattifying formulas. “Then think about applying a primer, which is all about shine control, creating a smooth surface to work on and keeping makeup in place,” says makeup artist Marina Andersson.
Lean on gel moisturisers such as Lumene Nordic Hydra Fresh Moisture 24H Water Gel, which are oil-free and contain lightweight humectants like hyaluronic acid to hold vast amounts of water and plump up the skin without blocking pores.
Speaking of which, pores are an outlet for sweat and excess sebum to leave the body so they can appear bigger in hot climates. Quick-fix products, otherwise known as ‘under makeup Spanx’ can make a difference. Try Glow Recipe's Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner, which contains a refreshing blend of amino acids that help skin appear (and feel) smoother. Then ensure you apply an SPF such as Supergoop!’s Mattescreen, which serves up a matte finish that’s non-greasy.
As for primer, look no further than products like Ren Perfect Canvas Clean Primer on a sunny day, which contains agave tequilana as an alternative to traditional silicone. “Old-school primers were made up of a lot of dimethicone, a silicone that leaves a heavy residue,” says David Delport, global brand ambassador for Ren. “Now there are greener botanical alternatives, such as silicones derived from coconut oil and the agave plant, which have the same skin-perfecting powers.”
Prep before you sweat
Choose the right foundation
Finding the right foundation comes down to personal preference on texture. For the base, after priming, Monteiro has a secret combination of foundations to ensure long-lasting wear. "A thin layer of a long-lasting formula, followed by a few brush strokes of a glow-enhancing formula. Lastly, a very thin layer of powder only in the T-zone to lock everything in," she adds. However, the powder mustn't be overused. "If applied in large amounts, the mixture of textures, when in contact with the foundation and concealer, can create texture and creasing. For touch-ups, I prefer anti-oil papers."
Makeup artist Kirsten Kjaer Weis agrees, noting the importance of using barely-there products that mesh seamlessly with the skin. “Thinner formulas have the added benefit of not sitting in pores,” she says. Hermès Plein Air, with its balm-like, light-as-air formula, is one of the most exciting additions to this product category. “For day-to-day, non-festive occasions, I’m a big fan of using multifunctional, creamy products that can be applied with your hands. A tinted sunscreen can do the job of foundation,” adds Monteiro.
For those who prefer medium coverage, look for products labelled 'long wear,' which swap out oil for water so they wear longer without oxidising (when foundation combines with oils in the skin, causing it to deepen in colour). Just remember to avoid applying a foundation such as the Kjaer Weis Invisible Touch Liquid Foundation with your hands, as you risk transferring oil from your fingertips onto your skin.
Sweat-resistant foundations
Don't forget to waterproof your eyes
Swapping your normal mascara for a waterproof number is key during the summer. Byredo’s aptly named Tears in Rain Mascara fits ergonomically in your hand and creates long, luscious lashes that don’t feel crispy. Also worth noting: your eyebrows are part of your T-zone and are subject to excess oil. So it’s important to use a long-lasting formula to keep them filled in and lacquered into place. Glossier’s Boy Brow is fool-proof no matter what the weather throws at you.
Related: Everything you need to know about waterproof mascara, according to celebrity makeup artists
Waterproof your eyes
Set everything in place
Setting your makeup is a necessary final touch for hot weather. “Spritz a setting spray all over for a hydrated, fresh look that holds makeup in place for 12 hours,” says Andersson, noting that her favourite is MAC Prep + Prime Fix+, which deposits a deliciously cooling gossamer fine mist infused with green tea and cucumber over the skin. As for those who prefer a powder, the Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder is finely milled and comes in both light and dark shades to flatter all skin tones.
To avoid pilling, stick to powder formulas for your bronzer and blusher, too. Westman Atelier's Beauty Butter Powder Bronzer recreates a natural tan, while Chanel's Joues Contraste blusher bathes skin in a warm flush.
Set your makeup
What makeup is best for the summer heat?
For those sweltering summer days, choosing the right makeup can make all the difference. Opt for products that are lightweight, sweat-resistant, and long-lasting. Generally, mattifying, water-based formulas that are oil-free work best. However, if you have very dry skin, look for products with a bit more oil to keep your skin hydrated.
Start with a shine-locking, skin-perfecting primer to create a smooth base. Avoid heavy foundations; instead, go for light-as-air, barely-there options like Kjær Weis’ Invisible Touch Liquid Foundation or Caia Cosmetics’ Dewy Drops. Tinted sunscreens like La Mer’s Radiant SkinTint Broad Spectrum are also excellent choices, offering coverage and sun protection.
When it comes to powders, steer clear of cakey, thick formulations. Translucent, matte-finish lightweight setting powders are perfect for controlling shine and securing your makeup. A refreshing setting spray like MAC’s Prep + Prime Fix+ or Milk Makeup’s Hydro Grip Setting Spray can also help keep you cool and your makeup in place. For bronzer and blusher, powder formulas are ideal for oily skin, while cream or gel-based options blend seamlessly and provide a natural finish.
Waterproof eye makeup is a summer essential. Mascaras like Byredo’s Tears in Rain and It Cosmetics’ Superhero Volumizing Mascara are great for avoiding raccoon eyes. Waterproof eyeliner and eyeshadow are also must-haves, with creamy formulas less prone to creasing and smudging. Don’t forget to prime your eyelids to prevent any unwanted movement.
How do I keep my makeup from melting in the summer?
To keep your makeup from melting in the heat, building a base that increases the longevity of your makeup is a crucial first step. From the products you use when cleansing your skin (our experts recommend gentle facial soaps to prevent deep dryness) to the serums, moisturisers, and primers you use before applying makeup, doing the correct prep work is key.
After cleansing, opt for an antioxidant-rich serum with pore-minimising ingredients to help keep oiliness at bay. Your moisturisers should be gel-like and water-based, while a mattifying sunscreen and primer are your best friends during this season. As mentioned before, matte-finish, lightweight products are often the most sweat-proof, and waterproof eye makeup is critical in preventing any messy, smudgy eyes.
Like a quality primer, setting spray or powder is key during warm weather. They seal in the makeup on hot and humid days, making them vital last steps in your summer makeup routine. Loose, fine powders are great for setting the under-eye area, T-zone, and other oil-prone spots, while a setting spray locks in and refreshes your makeup.