30 top Finnish designers unite for ‘Finland’s Met Gala’, where fashion and art intersect

A never-before-seen event took place last Thursday in Helsinki, as 30 of Finland’s top fashion designers took over the capital’s renowned Ateneum museum, showcasing their singular pieces – some dreamt up just for the occasion, others plucked from existing collections – in a spectacle that bridged fashion and art. Much like the Met Gala, where the event’s sartorial theme is drawn from the museum’s leading exhibition, the designers’ creations here mingled with the Ateneum’s Gallen-Kallela, Klimt & Wien exhibition, which explores the celebrated works of the rebellious Viennese Secessionists.

Against the backdrop of Ateneum’s lofty, vaulted ceilings and majestic Neo-Renaissance interiors, a flurry of show-stopping gowns swept down the foyer’s historic stairs, soundtracked by otherworldly, dramatic tunes. The two daytime presentations were open to all and free of charge, reinforcing an inclusive approach to fashion shows. Starting tomorrow, the looks featured in the show will be on view in greater detail, as a three-part exhibition commences on the museum’s third-floor landing.

“Traditionally, fashion events and galas are exclusive and elitist VIP occasions for a select few. I don’t believe in that mindset or value system. I wanted to create something different – an inclusive prestige event, free for everyone,” explains Minttu Vesala, creative extraordinaire and the mastermind behind the gala’s execution and fashion curation. “Finns’ knowledge and interest in fashion is very low, reasons for that lay in our history and in the uncertain world situation. At the same time, we have a growing number of young designers and great fashion professionals whose talent and passion are on an international level. My goal is to raise the cultural appreciation and awareness of fashion, as an art form and industry,” they continue. “I believe that by creating encounters like this, we can inspire Finnish people, spark the everyday interest so that the recognition and purchasing power of fashion will start rising. With the support of home base the fashion community has more power to climb to the international market. There’s not enough market here for the talent to survive.”

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Vesala meticulously selected each designer – and their looks – to include. The roster, which they dub “today’s top Finnish designers”, boasts both emerging talents and established names, including Mert Otsamo, Linda Kokkonen, Rolf Ekroth, Jim Bergström, Sini Saavala, Tuuli-Tytti Koivula, Teemu Muurimäki, Enni Lähderinne and Alex Luonto.

Informing Vesala’s curation for the gala was its theme of free form, derived from the ideas of the Viennese Secessionists, who championed equality among all art forms and paved the way with what Vesala calls “radical transformative energy,” which spawned modern free-form aesthetics. Among these pioneering creatives was fashion designer Emelie Flöge, whose reform dress – included in the Gallen-Kallela, Klimt & Wien exhibition – famously liberated women from the Victorian corset, revolutionising women’s clothing.

“The garments for the gala were selected for their distinctiveness,” Vesala notes. “Each outfit is unique, and every one has its own special characteristic.” They add that the theme of the gala is strongly present in each look, while the collection as a whole is “in a way, very Finnish – austere and striking.” The gala’s diverse casting was also a pivotal part of the presentation, with Vesala stressing that “the wearer is just as important as the outfit itself.”

“I think it’s wonderful when different possibilities for showcasing fashion are presented,” says Saavala. “I particularly liked the theme – I feel I have the grounding to explore how the modern woman is liberated.” Saavala’s chocolate, floor-grazing long-sleeve gown was inspired by her creations shown at this year’s Fashion in Helsinki. It featured her signature repurposed women’s underwear, finished with a form-hugging corset that cinched the waist. “Here, I reflected on what it means to be a woman, playing with feminine elements and feelings of shame,” she explains.

Another designer who dreamt up a new gown for the occasion was Otsamo. His head-turning, raven avant-garde frock – complete with a billowing silk cape and goose feathers procured from France – was informed by two of his past creations, one influenced by the iconic The Swan painting by celebrated Swedish artist Hilma af Klint. For the designer, free form manifests in his look through the range of techniques and structures harnessed to create a dress that incorporates “elements very close to the body, but also those detached from it.”

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“Organising an event like this is extremely important and valuable for Finnish fashion, giving it the platform it deserves,” he continues. “Through this gala, I hope consumers can realise that fashion isn’t just a commodity, but can also be a form of art – a medium for storytelling and self-expression.” Kokkonen – who showcased a stunning black velvet gown from an existing collection – agrees, adding: “Participating in the Ateneum Gala is meaningful because my work is rooted in the belief that garments are carriers of memory, symbolism, and emotion. Being shown in a museum setting acknowledges fashion as part of the artistic landscape.”

News surrounding the Finnish fashion industry has largely been bleak as of late, with much of the discussion centred on homegrown brands shutting down and exceptional design talent leaving Finland due to a lack of available work. With the Ateneum Gala, Vesala hopes to shift the conversation towards a more positive outlook. “I hope the event and exhibition bring joy and beauty into the darkness of daily life. I also hope it strengthens interest in and awareness of Finnish fashion expertise,” they say.

The designers echo Vesala’s words. “I’m truly honoured and thrilled to be involved, especially because it helps push our scene forward,” Lähderinne, who was recently chosen as the Young Designer of the Year, says. “I wish that Finnish fashion – which is currently operating in a kind of survival mode – would be seen not as an expense but as an export, just like any other Finnish design. Something worth investing in.” Koivula, who designed a new, vibrant red sculptural gown inspired by Little Red Riding Hood, for the gala, chimes in: “I hope this event will spark conversations on how to make use of this great amount of talent we have in creating a functional fashion system, with opportunities for funding and business support.”

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Judging by the soaring popularity of the fashion shows, with queues snaking outside the museum and thousands of people attending, interest is certainly growing. “The event has already generated a huge amount of joy and enthusiasm… I believe that low-threshold encounters like these help spark new interest,” Vesala muses. “The Ateneum museum is one of the most esteemed cultural institutions, and the very act of placing Finnish design alongside the nation’s cultural treasures is, in itself, something to celebrate.”

The three-part Free Form exhibition (featuring 10 designers at a time), will run at Ateneum until February 1, 2026