Fashion

It took a heated group chat to whittle the CPHFW SS27 runway trends down to these 8

By Josefin Forsberg

It took a week of marination, a heated group chat, and at least one unresolved argument about capes to get here, but the Vogue Scandinavia team has finally agreed on the eight trends worth your attention from Copenhagen Fashion Week. Picking over superbly popular pedal pushers (a bit too passé to be considered a true trend, in our opinion), perky polkadots, and glossing over the onslaught of yuppies – these are the fashions that actually feel fresh new for spring/summer '27

1
Long sleeved silver mermaid dress

Collina Strada. Photo: James Cochrane

Short sleeved sequin sheer long dress with black pants under

Institution. Photo: James Cochrane

White shirt with sequin skirt

Herskind. Photo: James Cochrane

Dress with see trough top and sequin skirt

Freya Dalsjø. Photo: James Cochrane

She sells sea-shells on the sea shore

We've watched mermaid-core make a splash for several seasons now with castaway-appropriate crochet, iridescent finishes, aquamarine and sea foam green. By now, that's old news. Copenhagen's take for spring/summer 2027, however, feels fresh: monochromatic, with a smattering of large-format sequins and beading, and luminous fabrics. The city's pride and joy, the Little Mermaid, has grown up. Fitting that she'd find her next form in her hometown, isn't it?

2
Blue and red bloomer shorts with print

Marimekko. Photo: James Cochrane

Pink bandeau bloomer gala dress

Alectra Rothschild / Masculina . Photo: James Cochrane

Pink  bloomer bandeau dress

Studio Constance. Photo: James Cochrane

Beige trench bloomers

Herskind. Photo: James Cochrane

Budding bloom(er)s and hot on hips

Gird your loins, because next summer we're homing in on the hips. Cascading lace bustles fastened at the haunch, actual crinolines, and ample padding around the derrière will send the more theatrical among us into full historical fantasy. For a shorter, leggy take on the same silhouette, next-gen bloomers were walking runway after runway. We're calling it: This is the moment to retire those (beloved) track shorts.

3
Short sleeved white long flowy dress with ruffels

Munthe. Photo: James Cochrane

White set with a skirt and a short sleeved top

Henrik Vibskov. Photo: James Cochrane

White long apron shirt with a big collar

Skall Studio. Photo: James Cochrane

White knee length dress with a black short blazer

The Garment. Photo: James Cochrane

Trad wives not trad values

The Nara Smiths and Ballerina Farms of the world have fetishised the farmstead lifestyle: bread baked from scratch, eggs straight from the coop, and never a stain on her sleeve. Stateside, a crashing job market and a generation of disillusioned millennials find themselves wanting to escape the grind. Even in Copenhagen, trad wives are taking over: ruffled white dresses you'd wear to hang washing (if washing were ever this beautiful) and a surprising amount of lacy aprons. But their aesthetics aside, their trad values are not invited.

4
Black transparent top layered over a t-skirt

Photo: James Cochrane

Black sheer long short sleeved dress

Photo: James Cochrane

Long sleeved top with floor length back

Photo: James Cochrane

Transparent vest layered over a white t-skirt

Photo: James Cochrane

Cheat sheet dressing

Boo! It's truly Augtober when next summer's easiest trend arrives as one of the most popular Halloween costumes (that we're willing to bet you've worn at least once): The Ghost. These spectres, however, come with slightly more polished sartorial chops. Sheer sheets layer over t-shirts and silky slip dresses, transforming the bog-standard into the boo-tiful.

5
Orange striped jacket and a mid printed skrit

Photo: James Cochrane

White draped dress with low cut

Photo: James Cochrane

Blue knitted cardigan and blue checked skirt

Photo: James Cochrane

Carmella-core (no, not your normal mob-wife)

Another trend getting a summer update this season is the mob wife. We loved her first time around, in floor-length furs and oversized sunglasses, but Copenhagen’s version has loosened the winter uniform. Instead of waiting for December to bring out the glamour, mob wife 2.0 has more than one season in her wardrobe. Think draped dresses, strong shoulders and capris, with the polished ease of a Carmela Soprano or Michelle Pfeiffer. It’s still cinematic, still a little bit louche, but much easier to wear when the weather turns warm.

6
Long track jacket paired with a black body

Photo: James Cochrane

Blue and white track jacket paired with black pants

Photo: James Cochrane

Blue track jacket with white details

Photo: James Cochrane

A white track jacket with transparent arm

Photo: James Cochrane

The modern track star

The track jacket is having a moment of its own for SS27. While the shorts can stay in the locker room, the jacket has been given a new lease of life, stretched into something closer to outerwear and worn over little more than a fitted black base layer. Elsewhere, it sticks closer to its sporting roots: striped, zipped and ready for the relay, if not quite the runway. A sheer sleeve here and there gives the familiar silhouette a fashion twist. Consider it the tracksuit’s victory lap.

7
Mid texture skirt paired with a gren checked knit sweater

Photo: James Cochrane

White textured ruffled jacket with white pants

Photo: James Cochrane

Textured long white cape

Photo: James Cochrane

Textured skirt with checked blouse

Photo: James Cochrane

Textures we want to touch

Copenhagen was all about texture this season, from flouncy frills to fuzzy, touch-me fabrics. At Nicklas Skovgaard, a densely textured skirt paired with a checked knit practically begged to be felt. Elsewhere, rippled ruffles caught the eye, while fringe, fur and feathers added even more movement to the mix. The effect was almost sensory: clothes that looked as good to touch as they did to wear.

8
Butter yellow sequin cape paired with a white t-skirt and white costume pants

Photo: James Cochrane

Floor length satin cape dress paired with a headband

Photo: James Cochrane

Model is wearing a brown cape set

Photo: James Cochrane

Beige long cape

Photo: James Cochrane

Caped fashion crusaders

The cape made a strong case for itself on Copenhagen’s runways this season. Not the costume-y kind, either. Designers worked it into everything from butter-yellow sequins over white separates to floor-length satin. Elsewhere, it came in brown and beige, stripped of any superhero theatrics and left to speak for itself. That range is what makes the cape feel fresh again: it can be loud and glamorous or almost matter-of-fact, depending on how you wear it.