Speaking with design director Karin Gustafsson, Vogue Scandinavia gets the low-down on the brand's in-season collection
At New York Fashion Week, Cos made its dazzling return. “New York is a global city, and it’s an honour for Cos to be part of the CDFA’s Fashion Week again this September,” says design director Karin Gustafsson. Showing at New York Fashion Week offers a fantastic opportunity for any brand to share their creativity on a global stage, and following the success of the brand’s debut show last year, a return was imminent. “Global cities and communities constantly inspire us, so it is meaningful to be able to show physically in New York while streaming the moment globally across our channels,” says Gustafsson. “The opportunity to show in New York in front of our global community is something we truly celebrate.”
Showing in-season, presenting its autumn/winter '23 collection, the brand invited guests to the enclave of Manhattan’s Classic Car Club. The front row was perched along a deep-brown runway lined by metallic structures, the colours reflecting the setting sun on the Hudson River outside. “Our collections are consistently inspired by nature and are infused with the diverse colours and patterns of our surroundings,” says Gustafsson. “This season, the colour palette features soothing neutral tones of blue and green against distinct metallic styles, contrasted by bespoke animal and floral prints, which take inspiration from the world around us.”
The collection itself seeks to empower the wearer through tailoring; suits were redefined, waistcoats reinvented, and the shoulder emphasised through robust construction. “Each piece is made to empower, but not overpower, enabling the wearer’s personality to shine through,” Gustafsson adds. The structured suiting was then offset by fluidity seen in silk maxi dresses, sheer blouses and soft knitwear in mohair. Surfaces and textures also offered contrast, allowing the wearer to experiment with their own individual style. “We had a strong appreciation for surface manipulation and contrast, which led us to introduce quilted leather and craft-inspired appliqué,” says Gustafsson. A sprinkling of fringing on capes and neck-scarf details on shirts effortlessly shifted the collection from daywear to evening.
Below, discover Cos' full autumn/winter '23 collection: