With pinstriped printed leather and swooping shapes, Remain had us relishing in unexpected materials and silhouettes
For spring/summer 2023, Remain remains in the 1990s and early noughts. Having transported us from Copenhagen to Calabassas with its autumn/winter 2022 collection - with a paparazzi-fresh aesthetic – this season, the brand leans into a more casual concoction of workwear and soft tailoring. More specifically, there was a merger of the masculine and feminine. "For many seasons, we have been fascinated by the classic masculine workwear silhouette and have been investigating how to soften and diversify this style," founder Denise Christensen explained ahead of the show. "This season, we have added more organic lines and soft details to the collection without compromising on our clean aesthetic."
The traditionally masculine element of pinstripes was subverted, printed on unexpected materials such as leather and upended in its shape; the lines turned squiggly in the brand's curvaceous celebration for the season. "Fluid, organic curves can be found in many variations throughout the collection," Christensen says. The garments were flowy, with even the more linear pieces cut on a curve to create scrunched-up soft silhouettes. Low-waisted was the look de jour, with mini skirts and cargo trousers taking heed. One set in particular caught our eyes: a utility jacket with a cut-out waistband, the detail of the cinched waist with the ruched fabric only visible in the back, particularly enticing. And the collection really excelled in its detailing. A pink slip dress with a curved top-stitched bra detailing perfectly encapsulated the more feminine '13 going on 30' air of the collection.
There was a certain tactility in the textures this season. Of course, one of Remain's signatures is knit sets, and the knitwear gave the collection structural quality. "The materials are supple and complimented with unique detailing, such as the herringbone knit linen fabric used in the beige suit," says Christensen. "Or," she continues, "expressed weaved cotton with soft cargo details, super lightweight knits in textured silhouettes and summery novelty denim." Expanding on the sets, knit polo shirts and dresses populated the runway as if plucked from golf and tennis courts alike. The leather was also a continued stand-out, with the aforementioned printed pinstripes joined by tartan. Seersucker shirts created added character, and at the same time, we saw fuzzy colours burst from a muted twill creating a 3D effect.
See the full collection below: