Sure to make a sartorial impact, this season we saw Rabens Saloner lean into “sleeve-ography”
A moody palette of midnight blue, forest green, bitter chocolate and soft neutrals lay the foundation for Rabens Saloner’s autumn/winter 2023 collection. Mixed with flashes of mandarin and purple, seen in the brand’s emblematic dip dyes and hand-painted prints, it makes for the brand’s “darkest collection yet”, the creative team told Vogue Scandinavia ahead of the show. “People tend to buy into a lot of the dark colours, but we like the idea to implement our love of colour, having it peppered within the collection,” explained the team.
Tailoring has an effortless feel this season with textured wool providing a slightly crumpled surface to a double cuff blazer and matching dress. Classic sartorial details – such as raw edges and bias-cut silhouettes – are reworked, resized and relaxed to bring modernity and ease. Houndstooth check, the eternally chic pattern of choice, is supersized and revised in shiny lurex jacquard to modernise a single-breasted coat or statement dress. Not to mention the “sleeve-ography” – as the team refers to it – which permeates the collection.
We also saw more toasty layers than ever before. Faux shearling, with nylon patchwork, provides a striking jacket and coat, while a knee-length jacket comes in a checkerboard quilted nylon. And another winter wardrobe staple, a checked fringed scarf, is exaggerated into a wrap skirt, a boxy jacket and an all-enveloping cape. Finally, what better addition to our winter wardrobes than an oversized mohair-blend sweater or slouchy cardigan? We certainly can’t think of one.
See the full collection below: