Martin Asbjørn - AW22

By Allyson Shiffman

Martin Asbjørn returned to the runway with a simply focus to deliver "great clothes"

This season marked Danish menswear designer Martin Asbjørn’s return to the runway after a two-year respite. To mark the occasion, he brought something altogether different: womenswear.


While some Asbjørn’s AW22 looks were designed with the female form in mind and styled on female models, the designer is notably un-picky about who actually winds up wearing them. “I’m really into what’s happening right now,” Asbjørn tells me. “People are blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear and what’s appropriate and what’s not appropriate within self expression.” For Asbjørn, the offering has little or nothing to do with gender. Rather, the focus is simply on “great clothes”.

In this case, great clothes means unexpected layering and clever cuts. A pleated mini skirt sits atop flared trousers. Blazers are worn two at a time. Then there are the juxtapositions – a sheer sequinned dress, for instance, is worn with suit pants. A metallic micro mini is met with a turtleneck. Despite all this layering, or perhaps because of it, the collection manages to embody Asbjørn’s other preferred descriptor: sexy.

“When I dress up myself, I want to feel sexy,” he says. “I want those items in my wardrobe that make me feel really good about myself.”

See the full collection below: