This is the first time since his debut collection in 2014 that Martin Asbjørn has created clothes for women... well sort of. The designer doesn't want to focus on gender but just create looks everyone can wear. Here he talks exclusively to Vogue Scandinavia about his shiny new collection
The starting point for Martin Asbjørn’s AW22 collection, presented today at Copenhagen Fashion Week, was rather straightforward: “Great clothes.” “I didn’t even make a moodboard,” the Danish designer tells me. “I just went with what felt right.”
Asbjørn’s first live presentation in two years, it was a significant moment for the designer, who has shown exclusively menswear since he launched his eponymous brand in 2014. Today, for the very first time, he sent womenswear down the runway… sort of. Inspired by the younger generation and, as he puts it, these “gender blurry lines,” Asbjørn presented thirty looks – 15 on male models, 15 on female – that could appeal to a customer of either or any gender. He isn’t keen on the term “unisex" or “genderless”… perhaps we should just call them clothes. “I basically don’t care who buys it,” he says.