Moto jackets, luxe leather, chainmail and buckles: this was Jenny Hytönen's punk rock take on couture come courtesy of AZ Factory
Finnish designer Jenny Hytönen first stepped onto the sartorial world's stage after claiming the 37th Hyères Grand Prix du Jury Première Vision. In fact, it was at the Hyères Festival in 2022 that she caught the eye of her latest collaborators, AZ Factory, and the dream to show during Couture Week was born. Founded by Alber Elbaz in 2002, today AZ Factory has become a multi-disciplinary platform that supports bold new talent.
When asked what first attracted them to the Finnish designer for its latest Couture collaboration, AZ Factory notes that it was "instantly seduced" by the combination of her shyness and her provocative approach to fashion. As for Hytönen's reaction to the collaboration, it was pure excitement. "I feel very honoured to work with Alber Elbaz’s legacy foundation," she says. "As a young designer it feels amazing to be trusted in this level and to have the opportunity to create my vision alongside a talented team."
While she may come across as shy, nothing about Jenny Hytönen's debut was bashful. In fact, it was uninhibited in its sheer and utter cool. Allowed to explore the unlimited world of Haute Couture with a seasoned team to back her up, the result was a collection filled with edgy details and exceptional material manipulation: reimagined leather classics like Moto jackets and biker vests mingle with wispy folds of floaty nude fabric. At the same time, bolts and buckles adorn cocooning coats and ethereal column gowns alongside the occasional dusting of chain mail.
The finale of the show in particular showed Hytönen's brilliant balance between more punk rock elements and more traditional couture techniques; a sheer figure-hugging dress clutched to the chest, with clusters upon clusters of silver spikes rustling as the model walks.