At a spectacular exhibition in the French capital, Swiss Maison Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 90th anniversary of the illustrious Reverso, a watch inspired by Art Deco and polo matches of yesteryear
Many watch brands offer a rich history that is 90 or more years old. But only one watch can tell a story of a reversing case design inspired by the noble sport of polo. And that watch is the illustrious Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.
When Swiss businessman César de Trey – originally a dentures supplier – told this friend Jacques-David LeCoultre about the noble game of polo freshly returned from a trip to India in 1930, he also spoke of the wild balls that would break any fragile objects during the challenging and demanding sport. A sport that often found the glass of wristwatches worn by the sportsmen as the losers after a game of “hockey on horseback”.
When the Reverso watch with its distinct Art Deco-inspired ‘gadroon’ lines on the case was patented within a few weeks by industrial designer René-Alfred Chauvot – who was employed by Jaeger – as a watch “able to pivot on itself by sliding into its support” in Paris on March 4 1931, LeCoultre and Jaeger had unknowingly initiated the creation of a watch still unrivalled and forever celebrated for its reversing design.
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The Heritage Reverso in red.
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The Heritage Reverso SAC.
Conceived on the fields of British colonies in India and created in the ateliers of Jaeger and LeCoultre (known since 1937 as Jaeger-LeCoultre), the Reverso was born. A watch more “Belle Èpoque than Art Deco”, according to historian, author of the book on Reverso and horological specialist Nickolas Foulkes, the Reverso is a timepiece that can fit multiple wrists due to its elegant size and discreet appearance.
At the Paris exhibition 'Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931', a women’s Reverso from 1931 is showcased next to the gentlemen’s version. It offers a 45 degree angled dial design and a simple leather strap that was meant to be strapped onto a handbag, proving that the Reverso was also seen as a fashion accessory in the early days of the innovative design.
During the opening of the four-floor exhibition on 15 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, I met with the brand’s CEO, Catherine Rénier, who took over the helm of the “Grande Maison of the Vallée de Joux” in 2018. I asked Mrs Rénier who, in her view, are the Reverso’s most important target consumers.
“The Reverso was since the very beginning a watch for men and women," she told me. "It became a fashion statement. Today, the collection is a very balanced share between Reversos for him and her, which underlines that Jaeger-LeCoultre first and foremost is a movement maker, not necessarily thinking in genders. We create movements for the needs of the end consumers. Even if the Reverso started out as a sports watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre soon realised that you didn’t have to be a polo player to wear the watch."
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Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO, Catherine Rénier.
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The Reverso One Cordonnet.