Within the Palazzo Reale di Milano, Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen's latest sculptural creations for Han Kjøbenhaven steer into dark, erotic territories
While many of the spring/summer '24 collections shown in Milan this season embraced a certain sexuality, none did so quite like Han Kjøbenhavn. In addition to its signature sculptural looks, the Danish brand introduced a collaboration with Sinful, the Scandinavian erotic toys brand. “The darkness, the texture, the emotion within Sinful breathes so well into the world I’m in,” says Han Kjøbenhavn's creative director Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen. In addition to the mesh finale dress featuring a sculptural neckpiece inspired by Sinful’s best-selling ‘tongue toy’, the collab finds Han Kjøbenhavn putting its own dom-ish aesthetic on a custom-made toy.
The show, which fittingly took place after dark, was held in Palazzo Reale di Milano, an appropriately opulent setting for a collection that revels in extravagant pleasures. Structural memory leather tube dresses that flare dramatically towards the runway. Slinky numbers that stretch up over the head in a sort of fetishy cobweb. “It’s based on super straight lines, like sharp shadows,” Wikkelsø Davidsen says. “It’s very controlled.” Then there’s the tailoring, with its razor sharp, extreme shoulders, highlighted with subtle metal details. “It’s very boxy without losing the shape of the body,” says Wikkelsø Davidsen. “It’s about respecting the body and working with the body. We don’t cover it but exaggerate it in a way.”
Here we find all the hallmarks of what has lately come to define a Han Kjøbenhavn show: moodiness, drama, exquisite shapes. Wikkelsø Davidsen is a designer slowly and steadily building his lexicon, one that’s picked up many notable fans along the way. One that’s sure to pick up many more wanting to dabble in a little daring darkness. “My starting point is to continue the story,” he says. “It’s another chapter based on my DNA, my emotions. Another chapter on the story in the world I’ve created.”
See the full Han Kjøbenhaven SS24 collection below: