Staged among misty camphor trees in the Tuileries gardens, Jonathan Anderson's spring/summer 2027 collection for Dior rendered the house's tailoring in gossamer organza, and borrowed freely from his menswear. The result is his most romantic Dior yet, and a clear sign of how much he adores the women who wear it
It is always easy to tell when a designer truly loves women, and at Dior's spring/summer 2027 show, Jonathan Anderson made it apparent that he adores them. Over the past year, the Northern Irish designer has brought a certain romanticism to the French house, a blurring of the edges that gives his clothes a soft effervescence. This season it came to full bloom, as mesmerising as the mist drifting across the pond in the Tuileries gardens, where camphor trees rose from the water around the runway.
That hazy blur is twofold. The first is tactile, down to the house's technical mastery: Dior's tell-tale tailleur reimagined in gossamer organza and silk mousseline. A sort of sartorial confectionery – candy floss clothing – that made the most of lightness and the French notion of flou. Layered skirts slid from almost-there transparency to full opacity and back again, and petal drapery flounced as the models walked – grounded, now and then, by a tweed jacket or a black blazer.