Culture

DesignMarch madness: Inside Reykjavik's annual arts festival

By Lakeisha Goedluck

Discover the aesthetic delights of Iceland's visionaries who put forwards thier furniture, fragrances and fashions at the annual DesignMarch festival

For a country with a population of less than half a million, Iceland continues to set the agenda when it comes to sustainability. The annual DesignMarch festival that takes place in and around Reykjavik saw a selection of forward-thinking designers, artists, ceramicists and even perfumers assemble to showcase their creative talent this April. Unsurprisingly, many participants were inspired by Nordic communities and the natural elements that surround them.

Here are the highlights from the week-long event.

Design

Atelier Etha is the combined creative pursuit of Icelandic ceramicist Steinunn Bjarnadóttir and British jeweller/glass artist Estelle Burton. Titled Beyond the Inclusion, the presentation explored the contrasts between the duo's rural upbringings in Iceland and England and the hectic feel of city life plagued by light pollution. Sourcing recycled glass and ceramic waste from their studios and nearby construction sites, the pair displayed their abstract lighting fixtures made using the same technique that jewellers apply to set gemstones into molten metal.

Atelier Etha.

As part of an ongoing project, Icelandic designer-maker Tomas Thorsson unveiled his latest collection of one-of-a-kind stools for his Akin series. Intent on addressing the issue of production waste when making furniture, Thorsson repurposed off-cut pine timber, foam, scraps of velvet and mohair to construct his distinctive designs. The process was wholly organic, as he patchworked pieces of different shapes and lengths together to create unique furniture that still seamlessly worked together as a collection.

Tomas Thorsson: Akin.

Elsewhere, Unndór Egill Jónsson gave visitors a direct insight into furniture-making by setting up his workshop within the exhibition space at The Museum of Design and Applied Art. Equipped with crafting tools that he’d also made himself, Jónsson went to work, putting his designs together piece by piece over the last few months to be able to display them during the festival. Working with Icelandic birch, his intuitive approach resulted in furniture that honours the natural materials from which it was crafted, as well as the time and skill involved in its construction.

Unndór Egill Jónsson.

Fashion

Bleached denim and strips of chocolate suede were remodelled into new age It bags by designer Hrafnhildur Guðrúnardóttir Thoroddsen. Through her handbag brand HIDDEN GOODS, Thoroddsen upcycles fabrics from cast-off garments to “uncover the hidden potential”, as she describes it. In terms of process, the designer went with the flow, creating bags and accessories that folded and fused in varying proportions, resulting in statement-making, responsible styles.

HIDDEN GOODS.

A prominent name within the Icelandic fashion scene and beyond, Hildur Yeoman’s designs have been spotted on everyone from Venus Williams to Jorja Smith. Centred around elegant silhouettes in striking prints, Yeoman’s latest collection was on show: comprised of delicate white pearl lace tops, diaphanous dresses and chic swimsuits covered in sequins and distorted floral graphics.

Hildur Yeoman.

BIBI CHEMNITZ is the eponymous label launched in 2006 by the Greenlandic designer whose individual take on streetwear – infused with aspects of her Inuit identity – has amassed her a cult following. Drawing on the extreme climate of the North, Chemnitz presented Outdoor Greenland: a dynamic art exhibition featuring her clothing at The Nordic House. From birds captured mid-flight to polar bears baring their teeth, the designer’s collection was as confronting and creative as we've come to expect.

BIBI CHEMNITZ.

One of Iceland’s oldest and most highly respected brands, 66°North marked its 99th anniversary this year with an exhibition named 867,815,464 Hours – the total number of hours since the company was founded. Originally established as a brand that made jackets to protect fishermen from harsh weather, the outerwear specialist decided to host a retrospective of its storied history by displaying a range of styles that the B-Corportation has produced over the years. Impressive highlights included the Olympic kit worn by the Icelandic team at the 1998 Winter Games and the technical bespoke Tindur Suit that was created for the first Icelander to summit the north face of Mount Everest back in 2013.

66°North.

Beauty and Wellness

An experimental pioneer within the fragrance world, Fischersund debuted a perfume distilled from a wooden barstool at last year’s festival. Founded by Sigur Rós frontman Jónsi and his siblings Ingibjörg, Lilja and Sigurrós, this time around, the collective introduced Faux Flora No.1 – the first perfume that’s part of a wider enigmatic collection. Visitors could experience the scent at the Frjóvgun // Germination event at the Fischersund 3 location, where it was displayed alongside a scent-based poem. Hand-poured in Iceland, the ingredients list was delightfully peculiar, including elements such as mountain milk, ambroxan and salt.

Fischersund.

As a nation, Iceland is renowned for its bathing culture. Designer Ásrún Ágústsdóttir wanted to honour this facet of everyday life for Icelanders whilst paying homage to traditional textiles, so she created the lifestyle brand Salún, which primarily offers swimwear essentials. Made using the salúnweaving technique to create a bold checkered pattern, the brand's new scrub mitt, debuted at the festival, was designed to go alongside the label’s signature towels and bath robes.

Salún.