Stockholm's most preeminent design school looked to designers of yore for inspiration this season
Aptly titled 'Hommage', this season's crop of Beckmans students looked to icons in the fashion industry when creating their collections. The 12 budding designers created deeply personal lineups based on one of six well-known fashion icons – Augusta Lundin, Barbara Hulanicki of Biba and Claude Montana along with the Beckmans’ alumni Gunilla Pontén, Sighsten Herrgård and Ann-Sofie Back. While the capsule collections are all highly individual, exaggerated silhouettes and and contrasting materials are common denominators.
Inspired by Biba – a London based designer active in the 1960s and 1970s – Asli Cömert took design cues in the form of psychedelic swirling patterns, while Desirée Bjurinder Fritzon looked to the mod designer's long and slim sleeves for inspiration. Thomas Wieser played with silhouettes, manipulating mohair fabrics, and exploring textures like metallics and fringe. Structure was an overall theme throughout the collections, with billowing coats and sculptural shoulders.
Considered the first internationally acclaimed Swedish fashion designer, Augusta Lundin's corseted and romantic silhouettes of the 19th century was the source behind the exploding tulle bows and wasp-waists of Alice Svensson Brostedt and iconic designer Gunilla Pontén's 1970s era seeped into the pointed collars and gingham prints of Saveja Sevéra Awzel. Their collections made a lasting impression, being innately personal while paying homage to their predecessors.
See all of the collections below: