Head hairdresser Cim Mahony invited Vogue Scandinavia backstage for an exclusive look behind the scenes at The Garment's autumn/winter '24 show – and shares expert advice on how to nail the lustrous locks and tight braids
At The Garment's autumn/winter '24 runway show, creative director Charlotte Eskildsen gave the early '80s her nod of approval, combing through cult-classified movies from the decade on the hunt for the perfect look. While the movie that caught her eye, American Giggolo, laced the looks with colourful knit v-necks and slacks, we couldn't help but notice traces of other iconic cinematic masterpieces of the era: A certain Breakfast-Club-meets-Pretty-in-Pink preppy youthfulness.
Perhaps it came courtesy of the fresh-faced flush or the glistening unbothered waves the models sported. The latter was created by head hairstylist Cim Mahony and his right-hand-man Tarik Bennafla – and it was all about boosting the hair's natural gloss and healthy shine. "As the show call time was early morning we started with a soothing scalp massage, using the vibrating Manta pulse brush," shares Mahony. A trick among hairstylists, it "always puts models in a good mood and calm frame of mind before hitting the catwalk."
For the models with Caucasian strands, the process was all about enhancing the models' natural texture, ensuring maximal gloss. As such, the blowdrying process was curated to "not upset the cuticle too much", and was finished with a round brush for shine, light volume and definition of movement. "To finish of the look we used the flyaway attachment to give that silky top coat with no flyaway's or stray hairs sticking out," says Mahony.
As for the models with Afro hair, Mahony and his team opted for braids. "We invited our amazing braid specialist Gabrielle Sade and Sainabo Chune who did incredible work," says Mahony. To start off with Sainabo and Ayo stretched out the coily texture, using the Dyson supersonic wide tooth comb attachment. "This prepares the hair to be braided, but is also the technique used to create bigger afro styles," shares Mahony. Next, hair was meticulously sectioned and braided in cornrows before being conditioned with mousse to help both shine and hold. Finally, the hair is covered with a net and blowdried with a diffuser to set the braids.
The result? High-shine '80s tresses we're keen to try ourselves – preferably sported with neckties and preppy suiting, naturally.
Step backstage at The Garment's runway show:
"This season The Garment show was at the absolutely gorgeous Moltkes Palæ in the centre of Copenhagen. A venue fit for royalty.". Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
"As the show call time was early morning we started with a soothing scalp massage, using the vibrating Manta pulse brush. This always puts models in a good mood and calm frame of mind before hitting the catwalk.".
"The early call time meant some models had damp hair, so for the most part we started the prep by rough drying the hair." Seen here is Tarik Bennafla – Cim Mahony's trusted wingman – who headed up the Studio Cim Mahony team on the day. . Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
"Following the rough dry, we used a brush for shine, light volume and definition of movement". Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
“To finish the look we used the genius flyaway attachment to give that silky top coat with no flyaway's or stray hairs sticking out”. Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
“The final look of understated luxury with a shiny surface and natural movement. Effortless glamour to compliment a lovely collection”. Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
"For Afro hair we opted for braids and our amazing braid specialist Gabrielle Sade and Sainabo Chune did incredible work. Here it is the majestic Queen Idakwo being prepped for braids". Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
"Hair was meticulously sectioned and braided in cornrows". Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
"Once braiding is done, conditioning mousse is applied for shine and hold the hair is covered with a net and blowdried with a diffuser to set the braids". Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
“The final braided look”. Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen
Photo: Frederik Kastrupsen