Avavav bring its usual frenetic energy and theatrics to the runway, turning up as 'stressed but well dress' for its spring/summer '24 showcase in Milan
The impossible deadlines, the grave design errors, the chaos and anxiety. It's the reality behind all runway collections that designers usually wish to conceal and deny, rather than showcase in exhaustive detail to the show-goers of Milan. But Swedish creative director Beate Karlsson – who is based between Stockholm and Florence – did exactly that for Avavav's spring/summer '24 collection, suitably dubbed 'No Time to Design, No Time to Explain'.
But Karlsson did offer some sense of explanation, noting "it's all about stress". And you could feel it. The models stumbled and rushed down the runway with looks in various states of incompletion, annotated with 'Add back?!', 'Wrong side?!', 'Add shape', while one look was constructed of Post-it notes in its entirety to form an oversized suit.
Its the latest in Avavav's series of unconventional runways (who could forget the intentionally falling models and actively collapsing outfts of previous seasons?). While this could all point to Karlsson seeking the unparalleled attention of a viral internet moment, there's a message behind the stunt that many designers would relate to, addressing the "frustration, anger and anxiety" created by fashion's relentless calendar and her business obligations – leaving so little time for creativity and the clothes themselves.
See the full Avavav SS24 collection below: