Sea change: The aqua-toned watch trend making waves

Last month, the watch world turned its attention to Geneva for one of the industry’s most influential events: Watches and Wonders. Among the tastemakers in attendance was Vogue Scandinavia’s editor-in-chief, Martina Bonnier, who spotlighted a rising trend on the horizon: timepieces awash in sea-inspired hues.

“Green and blue have always been staples for dials,” Bonnier says. “But this season, it’s all about a more nuanced palette. Think deep turquoise, muted teal, and seafoam green – elegant yet unexpected.”

From aquatic accents to major marine statements, here are eight standout styles that channel the spirit of the sea, no diving required.

First introduced in 1976, the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus – long a favorite among watch enthusiasts – returns this year with a striking update: a vibrant azure blue lacquer dial. It’s paired with an ultra-resistant composite strap featuring a fabric-like texture that adds a modern touch. The finishing flourish? A 0.8-carat diamond-set bezel that lends just the right amount of brilliance.

This year, Hublot has unveiled the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire, a 44mm timepiece that showcases the brand’s mastery of materials and innovation. Its case, crafted from transparent blue sapphire, echoes the clarity of tropical waters, while a matching translucent rubber strap and blue dial accents complete the cohesive design.

Powered by Hublot’s in-house Unico movement – an integrated chronograph with a column-wheel mechanism – it offers a 72-hour power reserve. Limited to just 50 pieces, this luminous edition is available exclusively at Hublot boutiques and authorised retailers.

In 2004, TAG Heuer introduced the Aquaracer, a line rooted in the brand’s first dive watches from the early 1980s. Celebrated for its durability and timeless design, the Aquaracer has become a favourite among divers and outdoor adventurers alike. This year, the collection is refreshed with a stunning new edition featuring a wavy turquoise dial inspired by the calm, clear waters of tropical lagoons, accented by eight 1.4mm diamonds (0.078 ct). Housed in a 36mm fine-brushed and polished stainless steel case and framed by a black ceramic bezel, the watch is built for performance – with water resistance up to 300 metres.

First launched at the turn of the 21st century, Chanel’s J12 watch was conceptualised by then-creative director Jacques Helleu to fill the niche of a sporty watch that still followed the codes of the fashion house. Designed to be unisex, the watch appealed with its functionality and avant-garde finish.

This year, the J12 watch is reimagined in a matte blue ceramic. It took five years of research by the Chanel watch team to develop this exclusive blue shade of the J12 bleu, showcasing the brand’s mastery in creating a scratch-resistant, and highly durable watch. For added elegance, the J12 Bleu X-Ray is also enhanced with 196 baguette-cut blue sapphires.

Founded in 1860, Chopard has long been admired for its ability to unite fine watchmaking with high jewellery craftsmanship. This expertise is beautifully showcased in the L’Heure du Diamant collection, where each timepiece is as much a luxurious bracelet as it is a precision watch.

Inspired by a 1970s design, the watches feature bezels set with large, radiant diamonds using Chopard’s signature crown setting – a technique that maximises light exposure to enhance each stone’s brilliance. The result is a timeless collection that blends vintage elegance with contemporary style and exceptional sparkle.

Available in a range of luminous shades, the standout piece is the blue agate version, featuring a dial that perfectly matches the vivid gemstone.

Founded in 1889, DOXA is celebrated for its iconic dive watches, favoured by oceanographer Jean Cocteau in the 1960s. This year, the brand unveils an updated SUB 200, featuring a polished steel unidirectional bezel that adds a sleek, modern touch to the 42mm stainless steel case. Available in eight colour ways – including a standout aquamarine turquoise – it balances DOXA’s heritage of durability with a contemporary feel, equally suited to city streets and seaside escapes.

Famed for its diamond jewellery and iconic engagement rings – immortalised in Breakfast at Tiffany’s – Tiffany & Co. also crafts timepieces that blur the line between watch and jewel. The HardWear watch is a prime example, proving that in the world of mini watches, small can still make a statement.

Its faceted sapphire crystal nods to the legendary Tiffany Diamond, while the design strikes a balance between delicate and bold, equally striking on its own or layered with bracelets.

Related: Made to be micro: 7 small watches to wear now

With origins dating back to the 1830s, this classic Swiss watchmaker is renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and refined design – creating timeless, elegant watches for both men and women. The Riviera is a perfect example. First introduced in 1973, it features a distinctive dodecagonal bezel and case, with twelve sides representing the twelve hours on the dial.

This year, the Riviera gets a refreshing update: an azure blue sun satin-finished dial accented with subtle, tone-on-tone wave patterns that evoke the depth and movement of the sea.