Jewellery / Society

Inside Anpé Atelier’s kaleidoscopic world of one-of-a-kind gemstones

By Eleanor Kittle
Up-close model posing with resting hands decorated with colourful gemstones from Anpé Atelier she is wearing a red-orange loose fitting top

Photo: Olivia Rohde

Forget flawless white diamonds. At Copenhagen-based Anpé Atelier, opalescent sapphires, unexpected colour combinations and naturally occurring imperfections are the real objects of desire. We step inside founder Line Jacobsen’s distinctly Scandinavian – and decidedly colourful – approach to fine jewellery

Fine jewellery has long had a rather singular idea of what makes a serious stone. Diamonds – preferably white, preferably flawless – have traditionally reigned supreme. At Copenhagen-based Anpé Atelier, however, the imperfections are often precisely the point.

Look inside the brand's jewellery box, and you might find an opalescent sapphire, hazy with microscopic inclusions; a bi-colour stone in which two shades collide entirely by chance; or the elusive pink-orange glow of a padparadscha sapphire. No two are quite alike. "Anpé has never been about gemstones that look perfectly uniform or interchangeable," Anpé Atelier representative Poppy Vaughan explains. "It is the unusual colours, inclusions, and little quirks – the things that make a stone impossible to replicate– that tend to make us fall in love with it in the first place."