Aiayu honours two decades of design with its first-ever runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Brimming with Bolivian craftsmanship, classic styles and reimagined shapes, this season, the Danish brand is taking us on a trip down memory lane
At the Nils Stærk contemporary art gallery in Copenhagen, aiayu marked a new chapter. Though the Danish brand has quietly built a devoted following over the past two decades, it wasn't until 11AM on August 7th that it unveiled its first-ever runway show – a graceful homage to its origins, evolution and enduring dedication to craftsmanship.
"Celebrating our 20-year anniversary feels like the right moment to present our first show ever. We're honoured to take part in Copenhagen Fashion Week and share our journey," shares brand founder and creative director Maria Høgh Heilmann. "Two decades of stories, deep love for pure materials, and a belief in craftsmanship that connects us to something better."
That sentiment reverberated through the SS26 collection, which unfolded not as a conventional runway display but as a living narrative: a reflection on time, memories and meaning. The silhouettes were elegant yet grounded, feminine yet utilitarian, with references to vintage Japanese aesthetics and refined workwear. The result was a lighter, more contemplative wardrobe, still anchored in aiayu's 'material first philosophy.'
The colour palette echoed the gentle shift from winter to spring: from anchoring hues of navy and black to earth-infused beiges and soft khakis. As the season progressed, so did the tones, arriving at the cusp of summer, with notes of undyed white, blooming lilac, and soft blue, painting a poetic picture of nature in transition.
Summer co-ords in crisp white set an ethereal tone, whilst a floral jacquard top and skirt evoked the spirit of the Japanese sakura season. Undyed, raw silk was shaped into pyjama-inspired silhouettes - pieces that elegantly blurred the line between daywear and dreamy leisure
Workwear staples were reimagined in breezy, undyed linen - vests, shorts, and jackets forming the backbone of a no-fuss summer uniform. Denim, first introduced last season, made a confident return in the form of structured Bermuda-style shorts and a matching jacket - offering a subtle edge to the soft, natural materials. And, of course, no aiayu summer is complete without the perfect dress: a structured linen maxi, defined by its sculptural drape and delicate seamwork.
True to form, knitwear remained at the heart of the collection. Lighter pieces appeared in opal blues and soft, nuanced brown, showcasing delicate eyelet and cable knits crafted from undyed Sartuul wool. The standout? Hand-knit vests adorned with traditional Bolivian pom-poms – a heartfelt tribute to the female artisans who have long been a part of aiayu's story.
And then there was the Helen bag, a perennial aiayu favourite. For SS26, it was reimagined in a miniature form, charmingly paired with handcrafted accessories in silk and cashmere - quiet luxuries that speak not just to fashion, but to feeling.
See all the looks from aiayu's SS26 collection below.
