By Malene Birger - runway - SS23

By Allyson Shiffman

For SS23, By Malene Birger doubled down on its sensuous neutral tailoring, peppered with pops of colour inspired by tulips

Since Maja Dixdotter took the helm of By Malene Birger as creative director, the brand has luxuriated in a palette of muted neutrals. For SS23, however, she found her muse in something distinctly vibrant: the tulip. The flower became “an emblem for the season through its shape and its rich, yet fresh colouring”. “You’ll see it across the collection in the crisp approach to texture, tones and silhouettes,” says Dixdotter.


Those optimistic hues – the peppery red, the soft yellow – pop against the taupes and beiges. Silhouettes are as effortless as ever. A relaxed silk suit, cinched at the waist with an obi-like belt, falls just so, its edges left raw. Sleeves bloom at the elbow. There’s subtlety in the draping, the soft rounding of edges. And then there is the fringe. “Fringe is a big feature across the collection, from long and ornate fringes to soft and frothy fringe,” says Dixdotter. “It was a challenge to make them work but I’m really proud of how the pieces turned out.” It’s found dangling from the lapels of a blazer or along the edge of a luxurious suede tube and skirt set.

By now Dixdotter’s By Malene Birger world is fully formed. Bohemian and elegant. The sort of garments that could dance through a tulip field or simply be folded into your fabulous life.