Toteme elevated its familiar codes for a subdued yet self-assured Parisian runway debut
Sandwiched in yesterday’s Parisian schedule, somewhere between the opulence of Schiaparelli and the excessive romance of Giambattista Valli, Toteme’s debut runway show served up a very Scandinavian palette cleanser. In the words of the Swedish brand’s co-founder and creative director Elin Kling, the autumn/winter ’24 line-up is “designed for real-life situations”, a notion which resonated especially well amongst the fantastical whirlwind of Haute Couture.
“The collection comprises a highly-curated edit that explores and consolidates the Toteme codes,” Kling goes on. True to her word, there are nods to the archives throughout the line-up: hard-working and transeasonal designs that, according to the show’s notes, ‘complement, rather than reinvent, the wardrobe.’ The pieces are familiar yet elevated enough to make the brand seem right at home as it took its first steps on the Parisian circuit.
Tapering was the focus for Kling, together with Karl Lindman, her co-founder and co-creative director (and husband). “There’s a sense of strength in the shoulders that tapers to the ankle, with a sharp point at the shoe,” she says. The strong-shouldered silhouettes play out best with masculine-inspired outerwear and tailoring, offset with sheer knits and streamlined dresses – creating a subdued yet self-assured effect. Elsewhere, texture comes to the fore with luxe shearling, cashmere, wool bouclé and feather-like fil-coupé, all rendered in restrained colourways.
Most notable, however, are some of the new accessory entrants. Models clutched new, miniature iterations of the T-Flap and T-Lock bags, while sculptured point-toe pumps and boots amplified the tapered shapes. It’s just a matter of time before they appear on Toteme’s well-earned cohort of A-list fans.
See all the looks from Toteme's AW24 collection below: