Sustainability has always been a core value for Danish designers and the wider Scandinavian landscape
This year, a host of designers are introducing new and innovative eco-friendly techniques to their collections, from using undyed fabrics to upcycled sweatshirts, making limited (often unisex) collections and striving to create beautiful clothes that last.
"More and more designers are ramping up their sustainability efforts and integrating a responsible ethos in their collections, focusing on deadstock, eliminating waste or combining traditional craftsmanship with a modern twist," says Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week. "Since Spring 2019, we've been developing our Sustainable Action Plan, with a vision to make the industry more transparent and responsible."
Here, we've rounded up the top eco-friendly brands to watch at this year's CPHFW.
Copenhagen brand (di)vision makes all its collections from pre-existing materials: reconstructed dresses, bomber jackets and hoodies made from deadstock sweatshirts are already signature pieces. "Only our imagination sets the limit," says founder Simon Wick. "In the future, we'll do everything we can to stick to this work ethic." For Earth Day, (di)vision collaborated with Carhartt and for AW21, the brand is launching a unisex collection, with a campaign starring Danish model Nina Marker.
Show: 10 August, 9.30am
A delicate Danish brand with focus on timeless pieces in more sustainable materials, Skall Studio, created by sisters Julie and Marie Skall, launched in 2014. The brand uses leftover and rejected fabrics from India in its collections, to reduce the production of raw materials, and designs for women of all ages. "For Spring/Summer we will be GOTS certified," says Louise Nyboe Andersen, head of PR and Communications. "We're also introducing undyed linen, as we have worked with undyed Danish wool for several years. To bring new life to our classics is essential to us."
Show: 10 August, 10.30am
Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen
An independent brand with a focus on creating streetwear with a twist, Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen specialises in upcycling. "I've always strived to set up sustainable production," says founder Nikolaj Storm. "We make limited, unisex collections to avoid huge amounts of stock and educate customers to be more responsible. We try to close our loop, by offering redesigns and upcycled pieces when something is in stock for too long. Our customers wants redesigns of their beloved pieces."
*Show: 10 August, 11.30am *
With its seasonless approach, The Garment focuses on timeless, minimalistic design, achieved through sustainably sourced and recycled materials. The Garment was founded by Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen in 2020; previously, Sophia Roe styled runway shows for Designers Remix. "Sustainability is about owning less, by buying right," she says. The Garment's collections are also CO2 compensated in partnership with Norwegian Choose, making this a truly eco-friendly option.
Show: 10 August, 5.00pm
A. Roege Hove
A. Roege Hove is a conceptual knitwear brand founded in 2019 by textile designer Amalie Røge Hove Geertsen. "At A. Roege Hove, our aim is to challenge traditions with a modern and artistic approach to original craftmanship and aim for silhouettes to be both effortless and extravagant," says Røge Hove Geertsen. "It's all about trying to improve the way we produce knitwear and take full advantage of its possibilities to produce garments with little or no waste." A. Roege Hove makes unique, hand-knitted garments including tops, dresses, skirts and bags. The brand has been awarded the inaugural Talent Slot by the CPHFW Show Committee, for its innovative design and responsibility in fashion.
Show: 12 August, 1.00pm
This year Designers Remix delves into the roots of the brand by showing an upcycled, made-by-hand collection on the runway in combination with key items from the SS22 collection. The Re-Made collection is a circular project, including vintage pieces and deadstock clothes from previous collections. Sustainability has been key for designer Charlotte Eskildsen for many years, ever since she launched the brand in 2002, re-using and re-shaping unsold clothes from different brands and mixing them with vintage. "Covid took away some freedom from us, and all of us had a new need of colour," says Eskilden about the new collection. "I see the use of colours in a minimalistic, solid yet sexy way, captured through a celebration of the 1990s."
Show: 11 August, 2.00pm
Ganni is bringing upbeat, high energy to the city of Copenhagen this year. The brand will present digital live streams throughout the week to hype the show, the location of which is still secret. Though not known for its sustainability, Ganni is attempting to be more transparent. "We believe it's our moral obligation to do better every day and we're on a journey to become the most responsible version of ourselves," says Nicolaj Reffstrup, Ganni's founder. "In 2020 we launched our responsibility game plan, which compromises 44 goals across People, Planet, Product and Property to reach by 2023. This ensures we're taking a results-driven, 360-degree approach. We use 70% certificated organic cotton or recycled materials across our collections and the goal is to use 100% responsible materials in the future."
Show: 12 August, 5.00pm
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Mark Kenly Domino launched his eponymous brand in 2014 after developing his craft at international fashion houses including Dior, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. The tailored atelier collections are made according to the couture tradition, with a focus on construction, fine textiles, quality, details and aesthetic. Mark Kenly Domino Tan is a unique brand, on a mission to create beautiful and responsible clothing made of quality materials that can last a lifetime.
Show: 12 August, 2.00pm
Teatum Jones, founded by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones, is focused on sustainability. Since 2018, the design duo have been working on a zero-waste initiative and are now presenting re-loved collections with different design partners. "We came up with this initiative to provide a solution to the industry's issue of excessive waste," they say. "Three years ago we knew we could not carry on the way we had been, creating more and more textile waste year on year. We got to work thinking how we could create better collections that had all the hallmarks of a Teatum Jones Collection, but with less waste." The UK brand is this year nominated for the Zalando sustainability Award during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Show: 11 August, 3.00pm