From layered lace to acid florals: The 8 trends to know and buy now

Are you staring at a closet full of clothes but still reaching that common conclusion that you have nothing to wear? Fret not, Vogue Scandinavia has the answers to your wardrobe woes. When craving a refresh, fashion director Robert Rydberg first urges us to consider how we can wear the clothes we already own in new ways, be it through inventive layering or transformed with accessories and brooches.

If you're still set to invest in a seasonal refresh, we suggest taking cues from the catwalks in Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. From flowing fringing to barely-there hemlines, we've scoured the Scandinavian runways to uncover the key trends to know – and the pieces to shop right now – when embarking on a fashion face-lift for spring/summer 2023.

As far as materials go, we have lace to thank for some of the most iconic looks in the latter part of the 20th century, from Madonna's angelic lace ensemble in the Like a Virgin music video in 1984, to the sinfully sultry bodysuit Naomi Campbell wore on Alaïa's 1994 runway. For spring/summer 2023, however, we're seeing a new era of lace on lace.

"This season, we see masculine cuts made out of lace," says Rydberg, pointing to Rotate's impeccable pink suit made from the delicate material. "We want to embrace that merger of masculine and feminine fashion."

We all know florals are a spring fundamental, but this season we keep our eye specifically on vivid versions to transform our wardrobe. Whether psychedelic, pop-art, or soft-edged, these prints have one thing in common: punchy colour palettes. Apple green merge with poppy purples, while buttery yellows are cosy up to Klein blues – a veritable rainbow of colours to choose from.

"Invest in a full look, like the Stine Goya suit and shirt," says Rydberg. Even if the thought of top-to-toe prints is daunting, it is a great investment as you can always break up the different pieces and wear them individually. " Wear the cargo trousers with a t-shirt and blazer," continues Rydberg. "Or maybe pick up on one of the colours in the print and pair the printed jacket with a yellow dress."

"In the past, we've seen a mainly sheet and A-line denim dresses from brands like Acne Studios," says Rydberg. This season, however, he points to a feminisation of the silhouette – seen in the corset seams, ruched shoulders and flowing fabric were everywhere on the runway.

Gestuz and Baum Und Pferdgarten led the pack in Copenhagen with shortened hemlines, cinched waists, and puffed sleeves to accentuate hourglass silhouettes, while Burberry's lace negligé layered atop denim trousers caught our eye on the international stage.

A seismic shift has been rocking the foundations of the leather-working industry, with brands moving away from using animal derived products in favour of sustainable alternatives. Yet while California is banning fur and mediterranean brands are only now beginning to step away from leather, Scandinavian brands have been spearheading the change.

"Just look at Stand Studio," says Rydberg. "They started out focusing on fur, and today they've all but eliminated it from their collections." It is a shift that also allows designers to be more playful with their designs, making way for the colourful looks seen on the spring/summer 2023 runways.

Heading into the new '20s, we're very keen to emulate the euphoric ensembles of the era with fringe en masse. The full fringe look was incessantly popular in 2022, celebrating any festive occasion with a sense of razzle-dazzle, but for 2023 we find ourselves honing in on the details.

"Look at the hemline of Mark Kenley Domino Tan's coat," says Rydberg, pointing our the ensemble's ineffable allure. "A bit like 'old Celine'." A trim of fringe swishing by our knees or sweeping from our crop-tops has never been more au courant.

Not to be mistaken with Daisy Dukes, booty shorts, or Bermudas – the resurgence of hot pants on the runway has caused this specific style of short-shorts to return to our wardrobes in 2023. Originally a means to protest modest dress codes in the '50s, today we're seeing these barely-there shorts as a must-have in warmer temperatures.

But for Rydberg, it is important to get your proportions right when rocking these mini-minis. "Wear them with a large shirt or suit jacket to balance them out," he suggests. And if you're keen to get your legs out in our cold climate, a pair of stockings are your best friend. "You'll instantly feel more covered and it looks amazing layered with knee high socks or boots."

When it comes to fashion, Scandinavians will eternally favour a handful of things: great denim, impeccable tailoring, and quirky prints, just to name a few. But most of all we love updated suiting, especially if it comes in an innately luxurious shade of Scandi beige. From Rodebjer's soft two-piece, to the utilitarian crispness at Remain, our local designers have truly mastered the look – with Max Mara getting an honourable mention due to its surprisingly Nordic nature.

"To succeed with an all beige look, I would suggest to really consider the cut of your clothes," says Rydberg. "Look for more modern silhouettes. Instead of a classic trench coat reach for an updated jacket, for example," he concludes.

The riveting return of the '80s truly deserves its own trend report for the coming season. The decade was everywhere, from the colourful tights and thin belts at Raf Simons' last show for his eponymous label (RIP), to the aforementinoed colourful faux leather.

Alexandre Vauthier created a particularly enticing homage to the decade for the brand's spring/summer 2023 collection, featuring acid washed denim, oversized biker-inspired jackets, metallic finishes and extra wide shoulders. The last two details were also present in Copenhagen – take, for instance, Rotate's gleaming purple get-up with statement-making shoulder pads. The '80s piece Rydberg is most keen to see return? Era-appropriate Donna Karan inspired power suits, layered with a sultry roll neck of course.