Don't sleep on these five up-and-coming brands
We're now a mere hop, skip and jump away from the Norwegian Fashion Week, Oslo Fushion Festival. Due to the pandemic still hanging around, the focus will be primarily digital. However, the fashion crowd will still attend a handful of events, presentations and exhibitions, after a year of empty calendars, low heels, and at-home content.
One of these said events is an exhibition directing the spotlight towards some of the country's most prominent or promising jewellery brands. Taking place at a locale in Oslo's newest and most happening area, Oslobukta, it's in collaboration with artist, furniture and spatial designer Ali Shah Gallefoss. (He's perhaps best known for his work with Holzweiler, having recently designed their store in Bergen together with Snøhetta.)
All the jewellery designers have been asked to put a small selection of pieces most representative of their aesthetic and vision on display. Here, Vogue Scandinavia focus on five of these brands:
Created by romantic partners Martine Breen and Andreas Bjørkeng Sogn in 2019, Boygal is, both in name and vision, all about meshing the masculine with the feminine. Chunky signet rings and chains are balanced out by dainty, soft, fluid pieces. Lil Nas X, a person at the forefront of the gender non-conforming movement, recently wore the brand's Bjarne ring when he appeared on The Tonight Show starring Jimmy Fallon.
During Oslo Runway, Boygal will show selected jewelry from their new collection called 'Together Effect'. This time, they've utilised smiley faces, hearts and pearls to emphasise the joy of being allowed to socialise with friends again.
Tradition and timelessness were key elements when sisters Haddy & Aissatou Ceesay created their jewellery brand back in 2018. Growing up in Oslo with parents from The Gambia and Senegal, they wanted to honor their heritage by naming the brand Diawéne, based on their mother's last name Diaw. The aesthetic mixes the Scandinavian with the West African; simplicity and minimalism meet a high level of craftsmanship and more bombastic, sometimes colorful details. All the pieces are produced in Senegal.
Giving back is vital to the duo, who have earmarked 10 per cent of their profit to go to charity. Recently, the sisters have also started to allow their more playful sides to shine through in what they create. A handful of these fun pieces will be on display during the exhibition.
Photo: Mold atelier
Mold Atelier's Linda Christiansen and Mikal Murstad's started designing jewellery out of light sheets of brass in 2017. The couple fell in love with the unique qualities of this material, in particular the oxidation affected by the climate where you live. This means that the patina of the pieces change after they've leave the Oslo studio and entered the customers' lives and surroundings. During Oslo Runway, the couple will showcase brass oxidation in its most rapid form. They've teamed up with industry designer Sofia Olsson, who has artificially expedited the oxidation process to make it clear how it can transform the look.
Their metallic exploration has also evolved into a creative studio offering art direction, idea development and visual storytelling. Last summer, during a long and lively evening of wining and dining at the hip oyster bar Eff Eff in Oslo, they started sketching out the idea for their upcoming 'Oy Pearl' collection. This will be their first exploration into the world of silver and gold, and is set to launch this autumn.
Photo: Aur Studio
In a world brimming with fast fashion at a mass scale, Aur Studio aims to be the absolute opposite. Each piece is handcrafted locally and made to order, from up to 100 per cent recycled silver and gold. Production, materials, packaging and transport have all been carefully considered to ensure that it aligns with founder Frida Feline Dahl's sustainable values.
The brand launched its debut collection 'Ripples' back in December, inspired by modernist art and architecture blended with Scandi minimalism. Aur Studio will showcase a selection of these pieces in the exhibition, as well as a film collaboration with Norwegian clothing brand ESP, known for their modern take on woollen garments.
Few things are more quintessentially Norwegian than the bunad, the traditional folk costume, and the bunadssølv, the jewelry made from precious metals accompanying it. Residing in the remote valley of Setesdal, Grete and Ørnulf Hasla started a bunadssølv business in the 1980s called Hasla. In 2016, daughters Anne and Gunnhild took over the reins. They initiated a complete modernisation and rebrand, stepped away from the bunad-roots, while their parents created Fossensylv, a smaller brand with a more traditional focus.
Today, Hasla is a seasonless brand with two drops a year, using only recycled metals. Anne, who's head of design, creates timeless pieces for everyday wear, and her background as an artist and her study of art history influences the aesthetic. Their new collection 'Faces', which is to be shown during Oslo Runway, was inspired by expressionism.