From Erdem to Nensi Dojaka, we round up our favourite runway looks from London Fashion Week
After two seasons of mostly digital displays, London Fashion Week's spring/summer 2022 schedule made a partial return to its former physical glory. With 130 designers, the gender-neutral fashion week showcased a smorgasbord of wonderful designs from the very best that the British isles have to offer.
Below we've gathered our favourite looks from the London runways:
Margaret Howell is one of the undisputed doyennes of British design, creating clothes for a considered lifestyle rather than following passing trends.. Operating for over five decades, her minimalist and utilitarian style have been a part of the London fashion fabric since she first launched her label in 1970.
Preen By Thornton Bregazzi
Dark romanticism and ruffle detailing was as prevalent in Preen By Thornton Bregazzi's spring/summer 2022 collection as ever. As if plucked from the 1980s, the collection was populated by pouffy silhouettes and graphic prints in a punchy colour scheme.
Synonymous with skin-tight silhouettes, David Koma's spring/summer 2022 collection celebrated the feminine form with sculptural styles and contouring cuts. The show was set at London Aquatics Centre, and the mood was sporty yet luxurious.
LVMH prize 2021 winner Nensi Dojaka debuted with her first solo show during London Fashion Week. The young designer brought fresh force to womenswear as she expertly celebrated the feminine form in her finessed, manipulating the nuances of revealing and concealing.
In a love letter to London, Erdem's 15th anniversary show was set in a colonnade of the British Museum. Dedicated to their spring/summer 2022 collection to poet Dame Edith Sitwell and aristocrat and artist Lady Ottoline Morrell. “Sitwell and Morrell were enigmatic characters who lived on the peripheries between myth and reality,” Moralioglu wrote in his show notes. “Neither was interested in fitting in. On the contrary, they relished standing out.”
This season Eudon Choi was inspired by the pageantry of the Rio de Janeiro Carnival. Specifically, the brand drew on French director Marcel Camus interpretation in his 1959 Palme d’Or–winning movie, Black Orpheus. In a dazzling shade range of tangerines, punchy blues and acid greens the collection was a visual visual feast in honour of the Brazilian celebration.
Yet again, Molly Goddard – the master of smocking – managed to reinvigorate the baby-doll silhouette in her spring/summer 2022 collection. Airy tulle was contrasted with heavy knits in a wonderfully versatile colour scheme of muted khaki, white and brown with punchy pops of neon oranges and pinks.
Puffed up proportions were central in Palmer Harding's spring/summer 2022 collection. Voluminous sleeves and cocooning skirts dominated the silhouettes in the brand's lookbook, while the details focused oversized ruffles trimmed shirts and slinky ruching.
Relatively paired back for Rejina Pyo, this season the brand showed slouchy t-shirts and knit sets alongside the usual structured silhouettes and stiffer fabrics. The colour scheme centred around contrasting shades of orange and green, set against a base of brown and beige.
Skilful draping, with swathing fabrics and pinched waists, brightly coloured leathers and frilly trims made up Richard Malone's spring/summer collection. Emerald greens and greys lay the foundation of the colour scheme, while head-to-toe cobalt blues and bright oranges were eye-catching standouts.
Over the last few seasons, Vivienne Westwood has resurrected some of her most iconic pieces from past collections. Spring/summer 2022 was a continued celebration of the queen of corsetry's cult creations.
“When thinking about this season I was drawn to the elegance of a European summer; linen suits, slip dresses and sunsets. The way a trip like that can make you feel almost detached from reality, like it’s another era. It’s quite romantic," said creative director Victoria Beckham of her eponymous label's spring/summer collection.
Focusing on textures and materials, JW Anderson's latest collection explores airy silhouettes and heavy embellishments. The images, shot by Juergen Teller, features Danish model-of-the-moment Mona Tougaard and American Abby Champion.
Simone Rocha delivered several yards of lace and tulle tucked and pinched into baby-doll silhouettes – arguably, the brand's signature – for spring/summer 2022.