The 8 best balaclava runway looks to replicate this winter

By Josefin Forsberg

Photo: Brunello Cucinelli

The balaclava-buzz continues. We detail the ways to wear this winter-warmer now

Last year, Miu Miu showed models stomping through the Alps in snug hoods and puffed pieces, Jacquemus’s aptly named La Montagne showcase featured knitted pops of colour, and Marine Serre debuted intarsia balaclavas. Just to name a few. Set off by this slew of mountaineering-inspired collections seen during the autumn/winter 2021 season, the balaclava-buzz is showing no signs of subsiding.


This year, we saw even more examples of how to sport this handy hood and, as such, the balaclava is fast becoming our cosy companion of choice. Going beyond the snowy slopes, we now see this winter accessory in a more urban setting, sported with traditional tailoring to the office or reimagined for a more festive setting in sultry sheer materials. Not to mention the classic puffer-pairings.

Not sure how to wear this winter-warmer now? Don't fret. Vogue Scandinavia has collected the eight best balaclava looks from the autumn/winter 2022 runways to replicate now:


Paired with tailoring at Coperni

Coperni's chunky, texture balaclava with silver detailing shows that this accessory can be favourably paired with modern tailoring. The attached skinny scarf, recently popularised as part of the '90s resurgence, is styled as slung around the model's neck, cascading down the oversized blazer front. It's a case in point of how tailoring can elevates a balaclava, transforming it from an outerwear exclusive to a well-considered accessory. The look is further refined with zipper-detailed kitten heels and a structured purse.

The key to making this ensemble work? It all comes down to the proportions. The extra-wide shoulders and a roomy silhouette is juxtaposed by the slicked back balaclava and opaque thigh-high stockings – lending the look a sense of balance.


Built-in balaclavas at Proenza Schouler

Balaclavas have established themselves to the degree where they're being built into everyday wear. Just consider Proenza Schouler's slim fit top with a peplum hem: this look goes far beyond toeing the line of balaclavas being considered outdoor exclusives, making it part of the full look.

Paired with utilitarian slacks, a black leather tote bag, matching boots, and a golden brooch this ensemble just further cements the balaclava's unquestionable place in our everyday wardrobe rotation. And if you're wondering when to wear this indoor-balaclava, we propose three words for your consideration: bad hair days.


Tone-in-tone knitwear at Baum und Pferdgarten

There's a reason Baum und Pferdgarten bundled up their models with matchy-matchy knitted sweaters and balaclavas, not to mention perfectly padded puffer trousers. The Danish brand knows what type of layering expertise living in our region requires.

While we saw peachy versions popped atop long black tailored coats, we have our eyes on this specific ensemble in tones of green and blue. The sky-blue hood was tucked into a two-tone sweater with shoulder details, ensuring optimal isolation to minimise heat escape. Of course, Puffer trousers make this look a no-brainer when headed outdoors, but if exchanged for a pair of sleek tailored trousers, we see this set work just as well for the office.


A pop of colour at Max Mara

Dopamine dressing was done right at Max Mara. While the whole show as an homage to the humble balaclava, with the brand's signature muted camel colours and elevated tailoring was finished off with a hood, it was the explosions of colour that caught our eyes.

A cherry red suit cinched at the waist was paired with a stark black balaclava, and another red look saw a model covered head to toe in knitwear – wearing a monochromatic look consisting of a balaclava and maxi dress. However, we found ourselves particularly taken with this tangerine ensemble, showing the power of a single-colour look.


A matchy-matchy set at Gucci

Gucci also showed its mastery of top-to-toe dressing. Partnering with Adidas for their autumn/winter 2021 collection, Alessandro Michele presented a fuzzy crochet set in black and white featuring the sports brand's trefoil leave logo and iconic three stripes.

While a knitted set may read as casual, there was nothing laid-back about this look. Paired with black gloves, silver makeup and a bright red Jackie bag, not to mention lace socks and pointed-toe pumps, it read more va-va-voom than lounging leisurely.


A sultry, sheer jumpsuit Dolce & Gabbana

Transparent fabrics have been on trend for some time. We've taken sheer delight in donning lacy underwear underneath sheer tops, shedding our many layers in place of a slightly more sultry ensemble. On the verge of risqué, this ensemble felt more fitting for intimate dinners and cocktail hours.

Steering clear of its knitwear origins, Dolce & Gabbana's take on the trend felt delightfully refreshing. Merging the balaclava with our taste of transparency, the Italian Maison presented a sultry sheer jumpsuit in the autumn/winter 2022 collection. Leaning into logo mania, the look presented the balaclava in a brand new way – paired with a maxi-length pencil skirt, pumps and lingerie.


A natural puffer-pairing at Heliot Emil

The Danes did balaclava-dressing right again, with inimitably cool Heliot Emil presenting during Paris Fashion Week. In a line-up of monochromatic looks, with a focus on winter whites and all black, the balaclava was given a grunge-y makeover with loose-knit styles draped across the models' faces – paired with modern suiting and zipper-details.

However, it were the practical puffers that especially piqued our interests. While this design-duo focused on the abstract, with an array of unconventional coats wrapped around the waist or draped over the shoulders, there was nothing bizarre about pairing balaclavas with padded pieces. It's a timeless match made in winter wear heaven, after all.


A romantically detailed set at Simone Rocha

At Simone Rocha, the name-sake designer took the practicality of a balaclava and gave it one of her emblematic romantic spins. Twisting the idea of the utilitarian accessory, detailing her version with delicate pearls and pairing the chunky knitwear with sheer negligée slips, this snug accessory quickly made its way onto our wish-lists.

We admit this might not be the most pragmatic approach to winter wear on this list, but there's something to be said about the occasional time when we choose fashion over function.