For spring/summer 2023, Stina Goya lets its hair down – or chops it off, perhaps – drawing inspiration from the explosive energy of the early 90s Riot Grrrl. “This feeling of empowerment was intrinsic in the way they expressed themselves, the way they dressed and the way they behaved,” says Goya. “This palpable confidence, ‘f*** you’ attitude and vibe of je m’en foutisme is just so powerful.” Bikini Kill and Le Tigre soundtracked the design process.
Still, this is grunge done the Goya way. Clashing prints are softened with pastel hues, a more-is-more palette culled from the work of Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang’s 'firework sculptures'. Speaking of fireworks, pristine dirt sculptures 'exploded' and crumbled, their chalky pink insides decorating the runway as guests clamoured to catch the action on their iPhones.
There’s an effortless eclecticism in the mismatch of it all – a stiff black overcoat atop a vibrant yellow silk suit, bike shorts extending beneath a girlish pleated skirt. Goya calls it “dopamine dressing”.
If this feels like a fresh, more contemporary direction for a brand known for poufs and ruffles, that’s intentional. Sure, the sparkly frocks are there (made for the very first time from recycled sequins), but this time around they find balance with padded bomber jackets and slouchy cargo trousers. “It’s carefree, confident and oozing with attitude,” says Goya. “More than ever we feel like it’s important to feel empowered, especially being a woman.”