Fashion

Stem - AW26

By Eleanor Kittle

For AW26, Stem takes us back to its basics, paying tribute to the very material that underpins the brand: wool

The core inspiration behind Stem’s autumn/winter ’26 collection is, quite simply and beautifully, wool. For founder and designer Sarah Brunnhuber, the tactile fibre sits at the very heart of her label – a material she speaks about with genuine reverence. It is, therefore, fitting that the collection is titled 'To Wool'.

“It can be read as an ode to wool, like a thank you,” Brunnhuber explains. “But it can also be seen as a verb.” This dual interpretation sets the tone for the collection. As a verb, wool becomes active: twisted, felted, pulled, and stretched. Through these processes, Brunnhuber explores the fibre’s remarkable versatility, coaxing vastly different textures and forms from a single material.

This hands-on approach reflects the designer’s guiding principle that “form follows technique.” Rather than beginning with an aesthetic, Brunnhuber allows the material itself to lead the design process. This philosophy shapes the AW26 colour palette, which emerged organically from the realities of production. Navy blue, off-white, and brown were selected based on the availability of deadstock wool yarn in the required quality and quantity. All pieces are woven on a single striped warp, resulting in a nuanced play of checks and subtle pattern shifts across garments and accessories. Far from restrictive, these limitations are embraced as a framework.

At the heart of the collection lies innovation, most notably with the introduction of Stem’s Elastic Wool. The textile, which behaves elastically once woven, has been successfully translated into industrial production and forms the basis of key pieces, including a vest, cardigan, and dress.

As with all Stem collections, sustainability and construction remain central. Garments are produced without cutting waste; shape, pattern, and function are embedded directly into the fabric during the weaving process. Seams, fringes, and finishes are left visible and legible, allowing each piece to stand as a clear record of its own making

See the full Stem AW26 collection below.