Stem’s spring/summer ‘26 presentation welcomes guests not only to view their pieces, but to participate in the weaving work that defines the collection. A moment to slow down amongst the frenzy of fashion week, and experience the brand’s considerate, wasteless approach with their own hands
What’s in a weave? More than meets the eye, according to Stem’s Founder and Creative Director Sarah Brunnhuber. The spring/summer ‘26 collection ‘Over and Under and Over and Under’ is an answer to the overproduction and overstimulation of clothing creation. She asks, ‘What can be found in under-producing, in making less and slowly?’
Rather than watching from the sidelines, guests view the collection while being led through a willow-weaving workshop by Danish master Mai Hvid Jørgensen. As we get a physical feel for the creative process, runway looks slowly drift by. Garments have been shaped through a ‘pulling method’ that’s become a brand signature. The smocking leaves no seams and discourages waste, a principle integral to Stem’s identity.
The result: raw, fringed hems on bio-dyed pieces cut in relaxed, comfortable silhouettes. Also, ‘Stemin,’ the brand’s answer to creating natural-fibre, zero-waste denim, styled together with purple knotted bags where the fabric hangs, rather than being cut on completion. A patchwork dress has made use of excess fabric and studio experiments. Pieces of cloth are even woven into hair, innovatively pinning it back, and makes for a fresh and charming accessory.
At the heart of the show lies a basket – the catalyst and talisman of the collection. “Baskets have always been a particular point of reference and inspiration to me,” reflects Brunnhuber. “This collection started with me using scraps from the studio to weave a basket. In the process, I recognised that it represented weaving at a truly tangible scale, at its most elemental; over and under, over and under, over and under.”
See all the looks from Stem's SS26 collection and presentation below.
