"I just wanted to go back to my roots": See inside Søren Le Schmidt's latest show

Last night, beneath its soaring atrium ceilings of Frederiksberg City Hall, Danish fashion industry darling Søren Le Schmidt unveiled his latest collection, making a clear return to his most celebrated design language of tailoring and eveningwear. In Le Schmidt's own words: "I just wanted to go back to my roots – it's what my clients and my customers know me for."

Following the designer's acrobatic spectacle in the spring, Le Schmidt turned this time to a grounded and romantic display of theatrics with solo dancers from the Royal Danish Ballet gracefully weaving across the mosaic floors and through the runway models to a moving soundtrack of a live violin quartet and piano: a living intersection of fashion, music, performance art, and all-round beauty.

"I want to mix and match the different feelings with contrasts," Le Schmidt told Vogue Scandinavia ahead of the show. This very concept of contrast was the collection's defining element, vividly manifesting in pieces such as romantic ballgowns expertly crafted from black artificial leather and elegant evening dresses and trench coats unexpectedly rendered in white latex. The result? A thrilling mix of aesthetics and tensions, still never wavering in Le Schmidt's inherent sophistication.

The usual colour palettes were largely skipped this season, with the majority of the collection's suits and gowns presented in black, white, or beige – allowing the designer instead to prioritise texture and material. This focus was most strikingly evident in a sudden, deliberate injection of a beaded material, shimmering in black and silver. "I don't usually work with beaded stuff as it can be too cute, too romantic, too feminine," Le Schmidt comments, "but when you combine it with [the tailoring], it starts to make it a bit more rock and roll. "You have something so light, elegant and feminine, but when you combine it with heavy suiting wool and turn it upside down, it becomes kind of funny. These contrasts – I find them very inspiring," he says.

See the full collection below.