Aerial acrobatics, baggage tags and sporty styling: Inside Soeren Le Schmidt’s latest show

Suspended high above the throng of show-goers in Copenhagen’s historic Cirkus building, an acrobat gracefully twists and weaves through a suspended hoop. More than just a nod to the grand ‘big top’ setting, it’s a fitting metaphor for the creative gymnastics that Soeren Le Schmidt has performed to bring this vision to life. “I love to force my brain to think in new directions,” the Danish designer says.

Following his last sartorial spectacle staged on the public ice rink at Kongens Nytorv square just three months ago, tonight's show signalled these new directions. Set to a dramatic, discordant live musical score, Le Schmidt unveiled exclusive pieces in collaboration with fellow Danish favourite, DAY ET. The range, crafted from DAY ET's signature recycled textile containing Seaqual Yarn, includes bags, suitcases, and travel accessories. Fittingly, the cocktails sipped on by guests at the show had classic airport baggage tags slapped across the stems.

Not satisfied to stop there, Le Schmidt applied the collaboration to his namesake brand’s signature categories, in his words: “old-school tailoring and eveningwear” – almost entirely crafted from the same sustainable materials as the bags. “We’ve styled it to be very sporty with some caps, glasses, sneakers,” Le Schmidt explains, “so I think it will be really fun. There are popping orange colours combined with a pale mint green colour… and then of course black, grey and beige tones,” he says.

Descending a spiral staircase to take his bow, Soeren Le Schmidt is met with rapturous applause. It’s a well-deserved moment for a captivating collection, one that benefits from his decision to stick to off-schedule showcases, free from the frenzy of fashion week. “I’m a custom-made artist, and this way we have room for private customers – no one’s rushing to another show or dinner,” Le Schmidt says. “I love to make my own rules.”

“I thought it could be funny to have the show on a Tuesday in March, when there’s nothing else to do,” he adds with a laugh. But he's certainly not referring to himself as otherwise idle. Just a few weeks ago, Le Schmidt stepped into the role of Head of Design at By Malene Birger, in addition to his regular bespoke commissions for royal and celebrity clients. Just last week, he dressed no less than 30 guests for the King and Queen’s Arts and Culture Ball. “I’m a busy man,” he concedes.

The Soeren Le Schmidt x DAY ET collaboration launches on April 22nd.

See all the looks from the runway show below.