The rise of the 'Sephora Tween' – Should we be age-restricting skincare ingredients?

Over the past couple of months, Sephora stores across the globe have experienced a strange new phenomenon: the ‘Sephora Tween’. What emerged as a frustration in response to TikTok-inspired pre-teens ruining expensive product testers and displays quickly took an alarming turn when social media was overrun with children using strong, active ingredients like acids and retinoids. Ingredients meant to erase signs of ageing that the teenage users are still decades away from experiencing.

A couple of months and an epidemic of pre-teens with ruined skin barriers later, Swedish beauty brands and pharmacies have taken a stand, with CBD brand Mantle and Apoteket Hjärtat introducing age restrictions on products containing certain active ingredients. “I was so alarmed when I learned of pre-teens using highly active ingredients,” says Mantle co-founder Josefin Landgard. “We wanted to do something concrete, so we introduced our age limit to draw a line in the sand.”

According to Zainab Jones, a registered nurse, there is nothing strange or wrong with young girls showing an interest in skincare. “However, it is important that they are educated about the right skincare routine adapted to their specific skin type,” she notes. Teaching them about the basic steps of skincare, such as cleansing, face cream, and sunscreen, is essential to promoting healthy skin as they grow up.”

When Jones first noticed the ‘Sephora Tweens’ phenomenon, she was concerned. “It was disturbing to see children under the age of 10 attracted by products that are not suitable for their age,” she says. As a nurse, she welcomed the news of putting an age restriction on certain ingredients. “It is important to protect children’s skin from active ingredients where they risk damaging the skin barrier, developing contact dermatitis, irritation and overstimulation on the skin.”

An important distinction to make when discussing the phenomenon is that, during puberty, children and teenagers differ regarding their skin. “Hormonal changes in teenagers’ bodies affect the sebaceous glands and result in increased oil production, which often leads to pimples, blackheads and acne,” says Jones. “Parents play a key role in education and guiding their teen in establishing an appropriate skincare routine,” she continues, pinpointing the abundance of pharmacy brands that offer efficient products to help teens manage their skin safely and effectively.

When exploring the topic, it becomes clear that the “Sephora Tween” isn’t really the root of the problem. Instead, pre-teens reach for retinol and acids because of unfounded concerns about ageing. This harrowing focus arguably comes from the beauty industry’s manic focus on “anti-ageing” products. “I recently saw a 14-year-old on TikTok who was worried about ‘fine lines’,” says Jones. “Her concern is a clear example of how social media can influence young people’s perceptions of beauty. It is important that we continue to encourage a healthy view of beauty and ageing and actively counter the unrealistic ideals spread via digital platforms.”

It is a sentiment shared by Common Clouds founder and beauty journalist Maria Ahlgren, exclaiming that “being young and wanting to enter the adult world is part of growing up,” she says. That said, it is alarming that the extreme focus on appearance and narrow beauty ideals has moved so far down the ages. “I have a daughter who turns 15 this year, and when she was a pre-teen, I often thought that every day before she discovers things she wants to change about her appearance is precious,” Ahlgren says. “My heart was breaking at the thought that my little girl would stop being a child with all the freedom that entails and become a young woman, with the self-criticism and frequent self-hatred that it often entails.”

Most women examining their own experiences growing up can relate to the shift – the freedom children have vanishing the second their focus shifts to appearance and comparison. Narrow beauty ideals are nothing new, but being exposed to them 24 hours a day is with unrealistic ideals bolstered by current skincare trends. “Glass skin leaves little room for normal human skin, such as pores or pimples,” says Ahlgren. “A report was recently released showing that 83 per cent of young girls have body complexes that limit their everyday lives and that over 9 out of 10 feel negative pressure due to today’s ideals of beauty,” quotes Ahlgren. “The deterioration of young people’s mental health and quality of life due to beauty ideals on social media is actually a global health crisis.”

The fact that we now live in a time when young girls worry about ageing before they even hit puberty should be a wake-up call. “The first staggered steps you take into the world of skin and makeup should be driven by curiosity and desire, not warped ideals or fear of getting a wrinkle,” says Ahlgren. Considering all of the concerns that come with teenage skin as it is, adding an extra layer of worry to ageing is both unnecessary and sad. “There should be a 25-year limit to even think about skin ageing,” Ahlgren concludes.

So, how should we, as a society – content creators, beauty brands, and parents – approach the ‘Sephora Tween’? “I see it as two separate problems,” says Ahlgren. One part is the harmful beauty ideals and how the pursuit of perfection creeps further down the ages. The other is that young people pursuing these ideals use the wrong products that can stress their skin.”

Education is everything when it comes to ensuring tweens and teens take good care of their skin. “You always have to ask yourself, ‘Who is this product made for?’” says Ahlgren. “If it is formulated to erase the signs of ageing, it has no place on a teenager’s bathroom shelf.” On the one hand, Ahlgren points out, it’s money down the drain because there are no signs of age for an expensive product to erase, and on the other hand, the formula can be far too potent for young skin and have long-term consequences for the skin.

That said, just the feeling of having something trendy on the bathroom shelf can give you a sense of belonging when you’re young. “If you have a 10-year-old who wants to buy products from a brand that is hyped on TikTok, you can perhaps help your child find a product from that brand that is not used on the face, e.g. lip balm or fragrance,” says Ahlgren. “As parents, we need to get the facts,” she continues, but it is also important to understand that the issue isn’t black and white. “I think it is dangerous to become alarmist and deny your teenager any and all skincare,” Ahlgren says. “It is more important than ever to gain knowledge and make informed choices.”

One of the facts to know is that children’s skin is thinner, and therefore more sensitive, than adult skin. This makes the barrier more easily damaged, which can have long-term consequences such as hypersensitivity, extreme dryness, eczema or acne. “Having a strong skin barrier is important at any age, but since children’s skin is not fully developed, it is extra important.” “Active ingredients can have potentially harmful effects on children’s skin,” adds Jones, who emphasises how important it is that parents are aware of which ingredients to avoid and why. “They [active ingredients] can irritate no matter your age - especially for younger skin.” Jones lists some common concerns: “You can develop a contact allergy. For a child with eczema or sensitive skin, active ingredients can cause significant problems. In addition, overstimulation of the skin can lead to dryness and an increased risk of acne.”

But what active ingredients should children avoid? “When it comes to teenagers and tweens, it’s wise to avoid active ingredients like retinol and exfoliating ingredients like AHA/BHA,” says Jones, who also notes vitamin C and Niacinamides as ingredients to keep an eye on. “These ingredients may be too strong and irritating for their skin.” Instead, Jones implores young people to focus on moisturising ingredients that are gentle on the skin and help preserve the skin’s natural balance. “Some ingredients I’m surprised aren’t highlighted as irritants are the sulfates SLS and SLES, drying alcohols, and strong perfumes that we know can dry out and irritate the skin,” adds Ahlgren. “PFAS substances that can be found in makeup and high levels of cyclic silicones are also substances that I keep away from my daughter.”

As for age-restricting skin care products, Jones believes that it is “a step in the right direction.” “It shows that the industry is taking responsibility for regulating access to potentially harmful products for young people,” she continues. “I think pharmacies have a very healthy attitude in that they now more actively help young customers find the right product for their skin condition,” says Ahlgren. “For example, BHA acid is a proven and well-studied ingredient for teenage acne and oily skin, but it is important that the teenager knows how to use the product to avoid over-exfoliation.”