There's a lady-like edge to the Remain woman this season, as Martin Asbjørn presents his first collection as the new creative director of the brand
The autumn/winter ’24 collection was supposed to be Martin Asbjørn’s first solo showing for Remain, but when previewing his work, former creative director and the CEO of the brand, Denise Christensen, urged her successor to soft launch with a pre-fall collection. And so, we were served a petite amuse-bouche of what’s to come for the Danish brand known for its shearling and leather: daring and sexy, with materials moulding to the body – be it brown tweed or silky, sheer chiffon.
Today’s showing – his first full collection for the brand – followed in the same footsteps. “For this collection, I wanted to bring together elements of classic and timeless dressing but seen through the lens of today’s empowered woman,” says Asbjørn, who pinpoints that his inspiration is always intuitive. “I look to the women I see around me - in my own life and in society as a whole – but you can pick up on so many things it can be hard to narrow down references, so for me, it’s a vibe and emotions I always want to convey.”
Hosted in Den Frie – the perfect backdrop for a paired-back, minimalist show where the audience can truly immerse themselves in the collection – nothing about Asbjørn’s runways could be accused of being flashy or gimmicky. “For me, the focus has always been on letting the garments take centre stage,” he shares. And so they did. There was a sense of gravitas to the opening looks, seeing fitted tailoring cascade into balloon hems and pleating. The leather that followed was supple, taking the shape of a cocooning coat or two-piece sets, billowing as models walked. The modern working woman: unafraid to demand attention with her sleek silhouettes and quiet luxury cuts.
The collection was dark, shifting through shades of burgundy, moss green, brown and black. But towards the end, suddenly, a breath of fresh lilac tones. “The colour palette is very moody but also with a hint of hope.” The materials are not always what they seem, as Remain’s signature shearling and leather are rendered in new techniques: intricate stitching gives the impression of pleats upon first glance, later revealed to be striped illusion on leather. Additionally, the ‘tweed’ jacket – a stand-out piece – comes crafted from printed sheepskin, adding a unique twist to a classic texture.
The cohesion is palpable when watching the collection pass by, possibly thanks to Asbjørn’s unwillingness to borrow pieces for the styling. “Everything was designed to the true DNA of the Remain woman,” he says, referencing, for example, the jewellery created in collaboration with Jo Riis-Hansen and the mesh boots and kitten-heeled slingback made by Anna Nord. “We came up with a surrealist vibe in reference to the '80s bold spirit and Salvador Dali – we have crafted brooches, earrings, necklaces, a belt and bracelets which turned out beautifully.”
According to Asbjørn, he aims to continue providing the discerning Remain woman with her sartorial backbone. And by the looks of it, he is off to a great start.
See the full Remain AW24 collection below: