Fashion

P.L.N. - SS26

By Clare McInerney

With 'SNIT', P.L.N.'s fourth runway show, the brand cuts through industry passivity with militant silhouettes and manifesto-level intent

“This is not performance. It’s disruption,” declares designer Peter Lundvald Nielsen in P.L.N.’s spring/summer '26 show notes, which read more like a manifesto than a press release. The collection, titled ‘SNIT’, delivers on that promise, turning a scalpel toward the system itself.

Models stormed the stark runway in a uniform of sleeveless tailoring, leather shorts worn over sheer hosiery, and gauzy mesh tops that seemed more like veils of transparency than garments of function. The silhouettes teetered between utilitarian severity and moments of dishevelled rawness – boxy jackets, apron-like overlays in slick leathers, and tailored pieces that clung like a protective exoskeleton, both shielding and exposing.

At times, the collection leaned into brutalist minimalism: a white, halter-neck tunic dress worn over black trousers felt almost ceremonial in its starkness, while a series of asymmetric slip dresses, cut from parchment-like linens, introduced a raw, tactile fragility.

Nielsen’s knack for recontextualizing sportswear codes remained present, though muted — stocking garters became a visual motif, slicing through clean lines on both dresses and suiting, while fringed tunics dangled like slashed harnesses. Gauze-wrapped arms, open shirting exposing bare skin, and utilitarian bags slung carelessly over shoulders hinted at a nomadic urgency.

“You are not livestock. You are not product,” the show notes insisted, and these clothes refused to comply with any categorisation. Despite the collection’s subdued palette of black, bone, and flesh tones, there was nothing passive in its presence.

Beyond the garments, the models’ gait was unhurried, their expressions blank yet confrontational. Each look became a “precise cut” — not for spectacle, but, in Nielsen’s words, “to expose”.

See all the looks from P.L.N.'s SS26 collection below.