P.L.N. - AW23

By Allyson Shiffman

Photo: James Cochrane

A dark and chilling nightmarish setting was the perfect backdrop for this anarchistic show

Stepping out of the freezing rain into the P.L.N. show was an assault on the senses. A dark foggy hall marked with ominous spotlights. A creepy, ambient techno soundtrack playing. There was a distinctive sense that things might get hairy. And boy did they. Locks of hair (er, yes the seemingly human sort) hung from tattered hems, sprung from sleeves like weeds from a flowerbed and grew tendril-like from pumps. Even eyelashes hung extra long.


For designer Peter Lundvald Nielsen’s second CPHFW outing, and third collection, autumn/winter 2023 is a doubling down on the codes of the brand, which revels in a certain dark and twisted anarchy – think straps and leather, tatters and rips. “For me and my team it is all about working with the fabrics, the importance of craftsmanship and the idea of crafting new designs from existing pieces and challenging how to create in a world of excess,” says Lundvald Nielsen. Everything old becomes new again in his hands.

This time around, Lundvald Nielsen worked to find the balance between unique showpieces and other more commercial items geared towards everyday wear (P.L.N.’s iteration, anyway) The accessibility of jersey and the inherent idea of its commerciality is challenged by creating pieces that will allow our customers to style the garment to express their distinct individuality – we like that duality” explains the designer.

Simply put, as Lindblad Nielsen says himself: “This collection is very dark.”

P.L.N. - AW23