For her BFC NEWGEN runway debut, Swedish designer Petra Fagerström played with propriety and provocation, sending out a SS27 collection where leather, lace and clever sleights of hand made a compelling case for looking twice
All in all, there is something fantastically ironic in Petra Fagerström calling her spring/summer '27 collection Swedish Summer. Anyone who has spent July in Scandinavia knows that the term comes with certain meteorological caveats – sun is not always a given. But in London, where the Swedish designer presented her fourth collection and BFC NEWGEN runway debut, things decidedly heated up.
The first impression was one of control. Silhouettes borrowed the strict posture of 1940s and 1950s couture: nipped-in waists, structured shoulders, and proper, almost prim proportions. But Fagerström had tampered with them. An interpretation of Dior's Bar jacket came rendered in fitted leather; a parka appeared relatively restrained from the front before ballooning out, dramatically, at the back. Elsewhere, familiar constructions seemed to have slipped slightly out of place. Fagerström called the process "glitching," and on the runway it manifested in clothes that looked right, until they didn't.