By Josefin Forsberg

For autumn/winter '24 MKDT takes flight, drawing inspiration from women aviators of the past

There's something enticing about the audacious spirit of early female aviators. “Such as Amelia Earhart,” says Mark Kenley Domino Tan's creative director Caroline Engelgaar. In the show's opulent, retro locale of The Glyptotek Garden, the autumn/winter '24 collection's raw and edgy aesthetic stands in stark contrast. “I aspire to evoke courage, the courage to express oneself, challenge norms, and embrace individuality,” Engelgaar continues, pinpointing how the female aviators' fearless pursuit of the open skies shapes MKDT's narrative this season. “Fashion, at its core, is a statement, and it's my dream that our show will deliver just that.”

Naturally, uniforms came to mind when picturing this collection: shearling-lined aviator jackets, utilitarian pockets, and boyish charm. “Practical with a twist of festive elements,” as the designer describes it. Take, for instance, the brand's interpretation of a classic trench coat in structured wool. A fundamental wardrobe piece, the backbone of any closet, it is given a feminine twist by way of a double-faced design and a detachable scarf. Then there were the woollen trousers tucked into tall riding boots.

Water-resistant materials, such as oily denim and coated cotton, made it onto the mood board (as is only fitting for taking flight) bolstered by warming wool and supple leather. ‘Make do and mend’ was an underlying motto: “Every garment in AW24 is also designed to be repairable, emphasising our commitment to sustainability and enduring quality,” explains Engelgaar. “It's about taking care of clothing, cherishing it, and ensuring it can be worn for many years to come.”

The colour palette encompasses earthy tones: brown and creamy whites. Burgundy and midnight blue, captured alongside dark smoky greys and classic blacks. All of which is interspersed with checks and prints. “One of my personal favourites in this collection is the Earhart print,” notes Engelgaar. Resembling parachute fabric, it vividly illustrates aerial photos of landscapes from above in muted nuances.

See the full MDKT AW24 collection below: