This zingy Greek white wine grape is the perfect partner to bright, acidic dishes – here's our favourite recipe to try
Wine has been made in Greece for thousands of years, but it’s only recently that bottles from the sun-rich country have begun to make their way onto shelves and wine lists elsewhere in Europe. Where previously we’ve been a little enamoured with the wines of France and Italy, Greece is proving that its varying terrain make it a heavy hitter in the wine department.
Of the more than 300 varietals indigenous to Greece, assyrtiko is a firm favourite. Hailing from Santorini and thriving in mineral-rich volcanic soils, this zippy white wine is a multifaceted sipper. Naturally vibrant and acidic, drawing it comparisons to sauvignon blanc, it can also have a richness of flavour more attributed to chardonnay – particularly when aged in oak. This bottle from Kir-Yianni in northwestern Greece is a classic interpretation of the style, with hints of green apple, pear and lime on the palate tempered by a balancing minerality.
It’s also a wine that pairs beautifully with food, specifically zesty dishes that will elevate the assyrtiko’s citrus fruit notes. This dish, which sees chicken roasted in a white wine, lemon and oregano sauce and served atop a salty, umami-packed butter bean mash is the perfect partner to assyrtiko; rich and acidic, balancing the wine's push and pull between freshness and body. This is transeasonal cooking at its best; holding onto these last, late summer days but providing the warmth and comfort that the incoming autumn nights demand.

Lemon chicken with feta butter bean mash
Ingredients (serves 4)
4 x boneless, skinless chicken thighs
Olive oil
Oregano
Juice and zest of one lemon, plus a little extra for the butter bean mash
150ml white wine (in this case, a small glass of the Kir-Yianni Assyrtiko)
2 x cans butter beans
70g-100g feta
Method
- Preheat the oven to 180 degrees celsius.
- Lay your chicken thighs in a roasting dish with a healthy drizzle of olive oil, the juice and zest of the lemon, the white wine, and the oregano. Season with salt and pepper and put in the oven to bake for 30-40 minutes.
- While your chicken is cooking, using a food processor, blend the butter beans, feta, a drizzle of olive oil, a dash of lemon juice and salt and pepper until it's the consistency of mashed potatoes. Taste and season as needed. Add more or less feta depending on your preference.
- Serve the chicken thighs atop the mash and dress with the cooking juices.

