For autumn/winter 2026, Holzweiler returned home to Copenhagen, presenting a tactile collection that evokes a hazy memory
Though Holzweiler is a Norwegian brand through and through, its autumn/winter 2026 show was certainly a homecoming. Occupying CPHFW’s brand new “homecoming” slot, the show mark’s the 10-year anniversary of Holzweiler’s first presentation in the Danish capital. After a couple seasons at London Fashion Week and a season or two with no shows at all, this felt like the perfect moment for a grand return. “We had some time off to reflect and think about what truly matters, and for us, Copenhagen is very much like home,” says designer Maria Skappel Holzweiler. “We feel we really connect with the people there.” Indeed the eclecticism, the authenticity, the laid-back vibes and the appreciation for a good puffer (this week, especially) make CPHFW the perfect environment for Holzweiler.
A homecoming calls for something special, and on that front Holzweiler didn’t disappoint. Held at Vandflyverhangaren, a massive hangar that, surprisingly, has never housed a fashion show, the set was meticulously lit by over 200 lamps, their light streaming through the floor-to-ceiling sheer curtains dividing the interior to illuminate the space in a red glow (they worked with light designer Jesper Kongshaug, who does opera and theatre and also lit the entire Copenhagen airport).
The collection explores the idea of preservation – that universal desire to hold on to something ephemeral, like a memory. To illustrate the point, Skappel Holzweiler offers an example deeply relatable to those attending CPHFW. “You know when you wake up the day after a dinner party and you have all these blurred memories,” she says, pulling up a moodboard of wine-stained tablecloths and people laughing with abandon. “It’s super emotional and fragile, and you really want to keep these memories.”
That notion of hazy last-night nostalgia – a mood perfectly captured by that carefully arranged show lighting – is reflected in the juxtaposition of sheer and textured fabrics, transparency doubling for the fuzziness through which one views the past. A cropped black pony hair jacket is met with a sheer maxi skirt, styled with a thin hairy scarf. Elsewhere, abstract jacquard prints – one depicting a super-zoom of kale, a standard on many hip Scandinavian dinner tables – similarly mirror the uncertainty of memory. Elsewhere, velvet-coated denim in rich wine and brown hues reflect that light just so, as do gauzy body-hugging gowns and ethereal slip dresses.
But perhaps the haziest and most indelible reverie of all involves a white dress. And so Holzweiler closed out the show with its very own bride, clad in an oversized white puffer. The sort of sartorial memory that sticks in one mind – proof that there’s no place like home.
See the full Holzweiler AW26 collection below.
