For spring/summer 2027, Ellen Hodakova Larsson heads out to sea, transforming beeswax, antique linen, sailcloth, fishing nets and even washing-machine covers into a wardrobe that appears to have washed ashore
There was something a little fishy going on at Hodakova this season – quite literally.
For spring/summer '27, Ellen Hodakova Larsson headed for deeper waters, presenting a collection seemingly washed ashore in the chalk-covered garden of Paris' Institut Suédois (something which did not seem to mix with the shoes of showgoers). Little boats containing Larsson's poetry waited on seats, while the clothes themselves appeared to have been caught somewhere between shipwreck and shore. If Hodakova has long made a habit of finding treasure in other people's cast-offs, this season, she cast her net particularly wide.
Water – or rather the traces it leaves behind – ran throughout the collection. The opening looks were constructed from deadstock lining fabric coated in beeswax, then naturally dyed using avocado pits and turmeric to create warm, sand-washed shades. Shift dresses were joined by trenches and raincoats as Larsson experimented with water-repellent clothing. There was an appealing contradiction here: fabrics designed to keep moisture out were used to conjure the feeling of having just emerged from it.