Fashion

Herskind AW26

By Eleanor Kittle

It's a woman's world more than ever at Herskind. For its autumn/winter '26 collection, the Danish brand redefines silhouettes, softens tones and declares: now is her time

The narrative arc for Herskind AW26 is one of quiet triumph. The battle is over; peace has settled. This collection is for the woman who no longer feels the need to perform her strength, who has earned the right to simply be. The result is a palpable shift in the brand’s signature power dressing: the breath slows, the shoulders drop, and the presence deepens.

For the third time, Herskind returned to the Papirøen district of Copenhagen, to show in the same space - a room of unabashed concrete and raw brutalism – an elegant contrast to the sophistication of the brand’s collections. “We used to do a lot of masculine power dressing with structured shoulders and things like that,” explains creative director Birgitte Herskind. “Now, we are taking a deep breath and allowing ourselves to be a little bit more feminine. Strong females don’t need to put themselves in a man’s world anymore.”

All of this is not to say there is no tailoring – after all, it wouldn’t be Herskind without a blazer in the mix. But for the new season, they are more hers than his, a sophisticated re-centring. Blazers have become jackets, structured but beautifully softened. Tops and shirts creep upwards, paired with low-waisted silhouettes, offering glimpses at the waistline: a quiet sensuality in exposing skin without spectacle. The palette follows suit, eschewing harshness for rich, grounded tones. Deep chocolate browns, warm khakis, charcoal greys, and luxurious camels dominate. Where black appears, its starkness is quieted, softened by the texture of goat hair, brushed lace or the gentle sheen of organza.

Asymmetry is a defining characteristic, introducing fluidity that rejects the rigidity of masculine codes. Cocoon sleeves and barrel-leg trousers meet the shaping of peplum tops and corset construction. Some pieces feature fine wire threaded through the neckline, empowering the wearer to warp, drape, and create a truly singular silhouette.

But, underpinning the entire collection is the unwavering spirit of one woman who embodies such a narrative: Grace Jones. Specifically, her song ‘Williams Blood’ – a tale of female self-actualisation and unshakeable truth – was the show's soundtrack. Jones’s influence pulses through the collection, undeniable in the eighties-edged leather and silk hooded shirts and lace stirrupped leggings threaded throughout the lineup.

See all the looks from Herskind AW26 collection: