One thing is for sure: Henrik Vibskov's SS24 collection packs a punch
“Let’s get rrready to rrrumble!” Henrik Vibskov trumpets down the phone on the morning of his namesake brand’s spring/summer ’24 show, mimicking the intonations of a ring announcer at a boxing match. It’s clear that Vibskov has truly immersed himself in the universe of boxing this season; his showcase took place in a beautifully staged ‘Vibskov boxing arena’, after all. But he clarifies that he’s stepping into the boxing ring exclusively for the aesthetics. “I don’t really like the violence part. But there’s this whole mind game going on, the mental aspect, how they look at each other during a match. And I thought that was more interesting,” Vibskov says. Describing the performance ahead of time, he says, “the models will look each other in the eyes, they won’t fight. It’s like a fluid, soft kind of fight – but only with the eyes.”
In true Vibskov form, just as he did with the tomato for autumn/winter ‘23, the boxing concept is stretched in multifaceted ways, including the idea of a literal box – “as a vessel that inhabits and protects precious items,” the show notes read. “The idea of carefully packing goods, the fateful uncertainty of sending a package and the curious excitement of receiving it.” From there, Vibskov was also reminded of how the human mind boxes and compartmentalises, giving the collection – aptly named ‘The Unboxing Waltz Tutorial’ – an added layer of depth.
Every aspect of this thought process resonates in the designs. Dresses and shirts – in fittingly boxy silhouettes – are inspired by unexpected deliveries, with interchangeable fronts and backs. Details in the garments riff on the shapes of handles and the textures of bubble wrap, while dynamic collages of boxing rings and gloves play out across various textiles. Bumping up the brand’s benchmarks this season, 83 per cent of the collection’s fabrics are endorsed with global organic and recycling certifications.
As ever, it’s Vibskov’s attention to the details which delights. The handmade silver accents to each look – created in collaboration with jewellery designer Vibe Harsløf – contribute to the boxing theme, forming the shapes of a band-aid at the nose and cartoonish birds circling a ‘knocked-out’ head.
Discover all the looks from Henrik Vibskov's spring/summer '24 collection below: