Henrik Vibskov - runway - SS23

By Clare McInerney

Man meets nature is powerfully portrayed at the hands of Henrik Vibskov

Bridges have been a recurring theme at Copenhagen this season. Wood Wood held its show on a bridge in central Copenhagen, while Iso.Poetism explored the philosophical bridge between physical and emotional. It makes sense, as this Copenhagen Fashion Week has an undertone of reconnection, bridging us again after the pandemic.


Henrik Vibskov is forthright about its own focus on bridges, with models intersecting across eight small bridge structures positioned on the runway. For the Danish designer, it’s more about the meeting point of humans and nature, with Vibskov fixated on the idea of a clash with bird, as a bridge "allows the feet to touch where only birds used to inhabit,” according to the show notes. “Through its lifespan the structure has moments of congestion and abandonment. The brutalistic materials of steel and concrete are able to transform into a romantic setting, making the structure a universal icon for metamorphosis.”

The collection, with its to-the-point name ‘Bird in Face’, draws its inspiration from the shapes and characteristics of a bridge structure, with pieces arching and wrapping around the body. Similarly, the prints incorporate elements from modular systems and distorted motives to create a sense of movement and romance, saturated in serene blues and greens and jolts of orange.

While show casting has been at its inclusive best at Copenhagen this season, Henrik Vibskov’s line-up feels realest of them all. From start to finish, the show was charged with an electric energy from the garments themselves, becoming supercharged as Copenhagen's Academic Choir stepped onto the runway, their haunting vocals powerfully elevating the final looks.

See the full collection below:

Henrik Vibskov SS23