Emilie Helmstedt has her head in the clouds for SS24, delivering. a collection that is, in her words, “so dreamy, so simple, so calm”
Helmstedt is best known for its otherworldly whimsy. Plucked from the singular imagination of Emilie Helmstedt, previous shows have swept attendees to shipwrecks on a sandy shore, enchanted forests and outer space. But this season, Helmstedt has ventured towards the most unexpected realm yet: measured practicality. “The last few years in this industry have been challenging because of the world situation,” she says. “I really tried to put my head around something other than normal.” Meanwhile, the brand is expanding. Armed with a brand new sales strategy, Helmstedt is going global, most immediately with a pop-up in Japan. “Our collection has to meet the needs of many countries,” the designer says, matter-of-factly.
Fear not – the show was hardly a sombre or low-key affair. An explosion of Helmstedt’s greatest hits – the most beloved motifs from seasons past – the collection served as a reminder of how delightful the brand’s singular language is. Ruffled collars and strings tied into teeny tiny bows, quilting and embroidery. Abstract painterly prints meet teeny tiny stars and mushrooms. Added to the mix is a cloud print, which Helmstedt describes as “so dreamy, so simple, so calm”. Where was the print Rounding out the looks is a collaboration with New York-based designer Susan Alexandra, whose signature beaded pieces are applied to Helmstedt-printed bags, and bikinis, those same beads dripping off dresses like water droplets.
The cloud motif is mirrored in the set, massive printed parachutes and low hanging puffy clouds creating an indoor sky. By the time the finale look – a quilted sky print coat dress adorned with tiny pearls – it was clear Helmstedt is still up in the clouds. Just where we like it.
Discover the full Helmstedt SS24 collection below: